Greek$$
DEMITRI'S FEAST
141 Swan Street, Richmond
Ph: 9428 8659.
ON A shopping strip in Richmond that is hardly overloaded with options for a tasty bite, Demitri's Feast dazzles like the whitewashed dome of a Greek island home. It slotted into its little hole in the wall on Swan Street in 2009, and following rave reviews for its Greek-style brunches and lunches, has become a cherished part of the scene.
This place is pocket-sized and very popular, so it might be wise to grab the first seat you find. There's a covered courtyard out back, with vine trellises and a lime tree, and stools ingeniously crafted out of olive oil tins (don't fear a numb bum, they're cushioned). There's also window seating inside if you are into watching and being watched, or a slightly squeezy row of tables along the wall.
It's open Tuesday to Saturday, from 7.30am until 5pm. On Sundays it opens at 8am. Brunch is served until the civilised hour of 3pm, so come before or after the weekend's mid-morning mayhem if you are prone to congested cafe rage. Bookings are not taken.
New Zealand's star coffee blend Allpress is the bean of choice. There's freshly squeezed OJ, bottles of boutique-label mineral water and soft drink, and seven or so nicely priced Australian and New Zealand wines, available by the glass or bottle. In keeping with the Greek theme, there is ouzo, but no retsina or Greek coffee.
The term ''home-style'' approximates what is on offer, but does not do justice to this cafe's artful, satisfying fare. A serve of ''village toast'' comprises whole roasted cherry tomatoes, tart, semi-soft goat's feta and fresh, sliced tomatoes on scored D. Chirico bread, plus a perfectly poached egg. The baklava french toast is one of Melbourne's best sweet breakfasts: sweet, eggy brioche topped with walnuts, cinnamon and thick Greek yoghurt and drizzled with honey syrup and orange blossom.
Owner Jim Karabagias, who grew up in the neighbourhood, can usually be found zipping around, checking that everyone is happy, be they the locals who come here Monday to Friday, or the hordes who descend on weekends.
Demitri's Feast has the kind of welcoming vibe and good tucker that leaves you with a warm glow.
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