DOC, restaurant, Carlton, Melbourne.
DOC, restaurant, Carlton, Melbourne. Photo: Supplied

295 Drummond St Carlton, VIC 3053

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Opening hours Mon-Thurs 5pm-11pm,Fri-Sun noon-11pm,no bookings, except for groups of seven or more
Features Wheelchair access, Outdoor seating, Private dining, BYO
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)
Chef Michele Usci & Tony Nicolini
Seats 55
Payments eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 03 9347 2998

Given the choice of running the Lygon tout gauntlet or queuing around the corner, DOC makes it easy. queue every time. Brash but charming male waiters corral the mix of hungry Italian families, couples and the odd tourist, offering tables on the footpath or inside, where concrete floors and bare walls amplify conversation to a heady buzz. Energetic staff work strips of prosciutto on to wooden boards criss-crossed with grissini, sending them out as starters that might also proudly feature a firm but milky blob of buffalo mozzarella. Thin-crust pizzas, one-size-only, are legend. A triangle of porcini with wild mushrooms, spiked with truffle oil, mozzarella and grated pecorino, is perfect for folding and eating by hand; a yellow tomato passata, anchovy, olive and caper offering is firmer. Say ciao with a gelati cup of tiramisu or sweet pizza with white chocolate and strawberries.