THIS quality-oriented Gippsland operation has been taken over by winemaker Mark Matthews and wife Marianna. The '08 chardonnay is typical of the French-accented house style: melon, citrus and buttery qualities have a chalky, leesy overlay on the nose; spicy oak is nicely subdued; and the elegantly built palate is fine, long and complete. (14 per cent alcohol; screw cap.) Ageing? Drink over two years. Food ideas Vegetable and taleggio risotto; pan-fried fish.