Farewell to an innovator in organic wine

Pioneer organic wine producer Gil Wahlquist has died at the age of 85.

Wahlquist and his wife, Vincie, established Botobolar vineyard and winery at Mudgee in 1971, and for many years it was not only one of the few organic vineyards in Australia but the best known. In 1994, the Wahlquists sold Botobolar to Kevin and Trina Karstrom, who will celebrate their 20th vintage in 2013.

Wahlquist was a journalist first, and came to Mudgee to edit the Mudgee Guardian. Vincie was a school teacher. Gil initiated the Botobolar Bugle, possibly Australia's longest-running winery newsletter, and wrote 50 editions.

"Our latest Bugle is No.99," Kevin Karstrom says.

Wahlquist also pioneered preservative-free wines, producing a shiraz and a crouchen from the 1984 vintage. The Karstroms continue with the red.

Gil died on December 7 and is survived by Vincie.

One of their "children", Roland, is the chief executive of Brown Brothers.