Any port in a storm: Three fortified wines for winter

It's hard to believe in a wine-soaked country like modern Australia that once, "wine" more often than not meant "port". Until the post-war wine boom staggered out of the 1950s, most Australian wine production was fortified, port being the choice of connoisseur and desperado alike. Strictly speaking it wasn't port, of course. That name is reserved for the fortified product of Portugal, but back then local wine styles often adopted European names. Fashions (and drink-driving laws) changed and those great Australian wines, now usually known as "tawnies", are mostly forgotten, but some wineries keep the faith with a quality emphasis. Traditional Oz grape varieties for these lovely drops usually centre on grenache, shiraz and mataro, but recently some Portuguese types have entered the equation.

All Saints Estate The Keep Tawny NV 750ml $17-$19

Score 89

A grenache-shiraz-mataro blend from the wonderful old castle of All Saints in Victoria's north-east, this tawny's subtly understated nose of raisiny fruit, spice and toffee has an attractive overlay of nutty barrel influence. It's not too sweet, and lovely clean flavours melt seamlessly into a dry, lingering finish. Screw cap; 18 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? No.

Stockists include Dan Murphy's stores.

Seppeltsfield Para Grand Tawny 10 Years Age NV 750ml $35-$38

Score 93

Seppeltsfield Estate is like a living museum in the Barossa. Fortified wines have been a speciality for generations. This delicious example has complex spirit, toasted nut, molasses and oak characters woven through dried fig and raisin. It's sweet and penetrating, warm and firm at the finish. A great winter warmer. Screw cap; 21 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? No.

Stockists include Rathdowne Cellars, Carlton North (Vic); Summer Hill Wine Shop, Summer Hill (NSW).

Yalumba Antique Tawny NV 375ml $23-$25

Score 93

A distinctive old tawny blend at a good price. It's like an inviting melange of dried fruits, citrus peel, toasted nuts, spices and lifted spirit. It's sweet and lingering in the mouth with lovely persistence, and perfectly balanced acidity keeps it fresh and tangy. Cork; 19 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? No.

Stockists include Figtree Cellars, Figtree (NSW); Nicks Wine Merchants, Doncaster East (Vic).