Beyond chardonnay: Three less-common white wine varieties

The market has exploded with choice in recent years, but we are still a narrow-minded wine-drinking nation. In the 2017 vintage, 80 per cent of the harvest was made up of just seven varieties. Shiraz alone was 26 per cent of the crop and chardonnay was 19 per cent. But the great underbelly of alternative varieties is flourishing: my last tasting of oddball Australian white wines contained 25 different grape varieties. They included such obscurities as picpoul, friulano, assyrtiko, malvasia and clairette. Many offer excitingly different taste experiences and are well worth checking out. You could argue that pinot gris (pinot grigio) is no longer alternative, as it's grown from zilch 20 years ago to No. 3 white variety today. But it's still relatively new.

Whicher Ridge Mademoiselle V Viognier 2016, Geographe $32

Score 95

A stunning viognier, tremendously complex yet not heavy or overwrought, with some of the spicy, nutty characters derived from barrel fermentation. Hints of stone-fruits and honey. An intense, full-bodied, multi-dimensional dry white. Screw-cap; 13.7 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to five years.

Stockists include whicherridge.com.au

Hahndorf Hill GRU Gruner Veltliner 2017, Adelaide Hills $29-$30

Score 92

This youthful dry white has fresh, lifted aromas of fresh herbs and lemon with background floral notes. The delicate palate, crisp yet textured, is full of flavour but at the same time it's restrained, subtle and moreish. Screw-cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to five years.

Stockists include Hippo Bottle & Bar, Collingwood (Vic); Bel & Brio, Barangaroo (NSW).

Hardys Heritage Reserve Bin Pinot Gris 2015, Adelaide Hills & Tasmania $35

Score 91

A little bottle-age has contributed complexity, with the beginnings of toastiness combining with straw, melon and subtle spice nuances. Soft, round and ample in the mouth, with richness, balance and harmony, finishing dry. A complete wine and still fresh. Screw-cap; 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Best within two years.

Stockists include BWS and Dan Murphy's nationally.