In the pink: Three pinot noirs of contrasting styles

Pinot noir, like any variety, is a moving target. While most Australian pinots are light- to-medium bodied, they can still vary greatly within this range. Pale colour doesn't necessarily mean a weak wine. Indeed, as with the Mayer Granite, it can indicate a refined, delicate yet intense wine of aromatic charm and refinement. This sort of pinot goes with mushroom pasta sauces, charcuterie, seared tuna and barbecued prawns. Grown on granitic soils in the Upper Yarra Valley, it makes a fascinating contrast with Mayer's regular pinot, grown on shallow rocky clay at slightly lower altitude. The bigger pinots are great with duck, lamb, veal, and heartier pasta and rice dishes.

Mayer Granite Pinot Noir 2017, Yarra Valley $55-$58

Score 95

The colour is pale red with a good tinge of purple, and the wine is light-bodied and very fragrant, with strawberry, raspberry and spice notes and mineral and floral touches. Delicate, light-bodied yet intense in the mouth, it's a very complex wine of true beauty and finesse. Diam; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to nine years.

Stockists include Rathdowne Cellars, Carlton (Vic); Five Way Cellars, Paddington (NSW).

Holm Oak Pinot Noir 2017, Tasmania $35

Score 93

The colour is medium-full red with a faint tint of purple; the bouquet evokes sweet tobacco and forest floor, with background berry aromas, and the wine is medium-full bodied with plenty of depth and concentration for a wine of its modest price. Plenty of grip and length. Screw-cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to 11 years.

Stockists include Camperdown Cellars, Sydney (NSW); winestar.com.au.

Philip Shaw No. 8 Pinot Noir 2017, Orange $40

Score 92

The colour is quite deep with a good purple tint; the bouquet sweetly spicy, cherry-like and backed by liberal smoky oak. It's full-bodied and firm with abundant tannins imparting a hint of acceptable bitterness. A big, solid pinot with the structure to cope with hearty foods, such as roast duck. Screw-cap; 13.2 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to 14 years.

Stockists include Camperdown Cellars, Sydney (NSW); Uncorked, Sandringham (Vic).