Low-octane, high-intensity wines

In alcoholic strength, most table wines fall into a band that runs from 12 to 15 per cent. At the top end you feel the heat, as alcohol gives an impression of warmth, and while it can also reinforce concentration of flavour and sensual power, too much fumey, headachey alcohol knocks a wine out of balance. Add in the health implications of too much alcohol, and searching out wines of slightly lower octane seems a good idea. In the low alcohol category are various manufactured wines of forgettable quality, but some regions naturally provide lower-strength drops with a true sense of place, good intensity and satisfying interest.

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese 2015, $80-$85

Score 94

Riper, sweeter types of German riesling from the Mosel region are naturally low in alcohol, and their superb delicacy and fragrance are deliciously seductive. This spatlese has delicate apple, citrus and blossom aromas with a lovely honeyed overlay. Light and fine in the mouth with balanced sweetness and a gentle minerally undertone, it finishes long, zippy and aromatic. Screw cap; 8 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over 10 years.

Stockists include City Wine Shop, Melbourne (Vic); Prince Wine Store, Zetland (NSW).

Brokenwood Semillon 2016, $23-$28

Score 92

Hunter Valley semillon naturally tips the scales at a lower alcoholic strength, part of its traditional charm. Brokenwood's very good 2017 has arrived, but this 2016 is still around and the extra age is worth it. Classic straw, lemon and waxy aromas follow through a zesty, intense, juicy, yet delicate mouthful. It lingers nicely in the mouth with some pithy firmness behind it. Screw cap; 10.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Yes, drink over 10-plus years.

Stockists include Dan Murphy stores.

Reve de la Mer Rosé 2016, $25-$28

Score 88

OK, this Corsican pink wine's 11.7 per cent doesn't sound very low in alcohol, but many rosés are significantly higher. A blend of native grape varieties with syrah, it's a pale, blushing style with aromas of red fruits, florals and herbs. Savoury and dry, it has a soft, easy feel that makes it easy to quaff. Cork; 11.7 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? No.

Stockists include Just released. Imported by Pernod-Ricard. Check your wine shop for availability.