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The adaptable chenin blanc: Three to try

Huon Hooke
Huon Hooke

Chateau de la Roulerie Anjou 2017.
Chateau de la Roulerie Anjou 2017. Supplied

Chenin blanc is a minor grape variety in Australia, but an important one in France's Loire Valley. Unlike cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, it doesn't travel well – it's choosy where it grows and is seldom very interesting outside its home soil. Arguably, this is a plus: great chenin blanc is rare and special. You must hunt it down. In its favoured dirt, the chalky soils of the middle Loire, it makes transcendent wine. The great chenin blanc appellations are Vouvray, Montlouis, Coteaux du Layon, Anjou, Savennieres and Bonnezeaux. It can be still or sparkling, dry or sweet, from just off-dry right up to luscious botrytis wines.

Chateau de Fesles Bonnezeaux 2013, Loire Valley, $80 (500ml)

Score 96

An outstanding late-picked wine with botrytis influence, the colour is bright mid-yellow and the bouquet disarmingly complex and charming, laden with honey, vanilla, malt and nougat aromas. It has freshness as well as sweet but not syrupy richness, the palate adding dried and candied fruits to the mix. Cork; 12 per cent alcohol.

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Ageing? Drink now to 10 years.

Stockists include European Wine Store, South Melbourne (Vic); L Maestro The Liquor Master, East Killara (NSW).

Chateau de la Roulerie Anjou 2017, Loire Valley, $44

Score 92

This delicious chenin blanc opens with notes of honey and moves into baked-apple and fresh apple nuances. It tastes near-dry and subtly fruity, with refined structure and tight focus, its penetrating acidity leavened by a trace of sweetness. A bright, fresh wine with immediate drinkability. Cork; 12 per cent alcohol.

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Ageing? Drink now to nine years.

Stockists include Decanters by the Bay (Vic); Vintage Blue, Sydney (NSW).

Domaine des Aubuisieres Vouvray Cuvee de Silex 2016, Loire Valley, $34

Score 95

This is attractively perfumed, floral, lightly honeyed, youthful and bright. It's a nervy style with slatey mineral aromas combining with fresh apple-y fruit. The flavour is intense and lively, with refreshing acidity and a subtle touch of sweetness. The aftertaste is long and lip-smackingly delicious. Screw-cap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

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Ageing? Drink now to 10 years.

Stockists include Blackhearts & Sparrows (Vic); the Woollahra Hotel (NSW).

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Huon HookeHuon Hooke is a wine writer.

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