Three Greek wines with a difference
Greek culture is important to winemaker Alexi Christidis. He named his Western Australian wine brand Chalari after the Greek word for relaxed. He makes his small batch, minimal intervention wines in the Perth suburb of Roleystone, using fruit from a variety of regions. "I make non-pretentious drinking wine," Christidis says. "They are approachable but also interesting and complex."
The range of 10 wines includes his take on retsina, a white wine made using Greek pine sap.
Retsina is traditionally made from graciano or roditis grapes (graciano for the good stuff, roditis for cheaper cask versions). "That generally led to a bad reputation. If you talk to anyone who went on a Greek Islands tour in the 1970s, they'll tell you they're not touching retsina. I hear that every time I pour it." His version, made with chenin blanc, is a head-turner.
Chalari Pinus (Retsina) 2020, Swan Valley, WA, $35
Retsina has been made in Greece for more than 2000 years. As the story goes, cunning locals would ferment white wine with Aleppo pine resin because they hoped the oily residue it caused would deter intruders from stealing their plonk during times of war. The flavour, however, grew on them, and here we are today. Winemaker Alexi Christidis applies restraint to the infusion of the Aleppo pine resin he sources from his father's homeland. Intriguing. A chenin blanc for the curious and the brave. It also works well in cocktails. 13.5 per cent alcohol.
Find it at: chalariwines.com.au
Chalari Lefko White 2021, Pemberton, WA, $30
Lefko means "white" in Greek. This is, in fact, whole-bunch pressed sauvignon blanc fermented in old puncheons. Christidis unashamedly tried to "bash the sauv out of it" and the result is lively and textured. Crisp granny smith apple peel on the nose and green apple flesh across the palate. There's depth to it – it's almost chewy. Approachable and utterly slurpy. Pair with charred meat or seafood. 12.5 per cent alcohol.
Find it at chalariwines.com.au
Chalari Annie Naturally Fortified Dessert Wine 2020, Swan Valley, WA, $25/375ml
Swan Valley was once known for raisins but few producers remain. Christidis used an old raisin grower's timber rack to dry the shiraz fruit used in this sweet fortified. Aromatically, it is subtle (like opening a box of raisins) but the palate explodes with the juicy little berries. The drop is named after the winemaker's daughter (look for the little unicorn next to the barcode). Sip it after dinner, with or without a side of ice-cream. 18.5 per cent alcohol.
Find it at chalariwines.com.au
