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Three minimal-intervention winners

Katie Spain
Katie Spain

Minimal intervention essentially means letting the grapes sing without too much messing around.
Minimal intervention essentially means letting the grapes sing without too much messing around.Ben Macmahon

Mention the terms "minimal intervention" or "natural wine" around winemakers and a long and impassioned discussion usually ensues. What is the precise definition of such terms? The jury is still out on that. But in a nutshell, natural means zero (or extremely low) additions and the use of organic fruit. Minimal intervention can be boiled down to "no messing around" – just let those grapes sing. You could get technical but wine should be fun. These three drops are exactly that: fresh, intriguing, beautifully executed conversation-starters. Not too heavy, not too light, just right. Bottoms up.

Vallee du Venom 2021 Syrah, Margaret River, WA, $32

Rhys Parker and Paul Hoffman are fun, thoughtful, deeply intelligent guys. Their minimal intervention Vallee du Venom wine brand reflects that. This is a light, perky example of syrah: pretty on top, and just the right amount of brooding dark fruit down below. The natural acid twang hits like the promise of daybreak. Utterly slurpy and like most of their creations, is small batch and coveted (act fast to score a bottle). 14 per cent alcohol.

Find it at the likes of Sometimes Always (sometimesalways.com.au) and Different Drop (differentdrop.com)

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Just Enough Wines 2021 Brutal!!! Merlot, Adelaide Hills, SA, $39

There's something foreboding about the cloaked scythe-wielding figure on the sombre label but the sulphur-free liquid inside is as energetic as it gets. Winemaker Bobby Fishel does his bit to make merlot cool again, turning his back on additions to produce this natty winner. It spent three days on skins before he pressed and barrel-fermented the juice. The result is ethereal, herbaceous, intriguing and light enough for lunch or a casual dinner. Gorgeous. 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Find it at juicetraders.com.au

Catherine Riss 2019 Dessous de Table Blanc, France, $56

Anything by stellar young winemaker Catherine Riss is a sure bet for a good time. She makes the good natural stuff (zero additions) in Alsace, north-eastern France (specifically Bernardville, a little village next to Reichsfeld). This combination of pinot auxerrois (chardonnay's sibling) and sylvaner (a white variety commonly found in Alsace and Germany) is all texture and joy. It's golden in colour and pops with citrus, pear and orange zest. Catherine Riss creations are challenging to locate but are worth the effort. 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Find it at Where's Nick Wine Shop & Bar (Sydney), wheresnick.com.au

Continue this series

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