Three wines that aren't too heavy

A lot of Australians are embracing wines that aren't "heavy". This usually means wines of slightly lower alcohol, lighter body, less power. The heroically muscular drops remain, and good on 'em since they are a significant part of the scene, but wines that retain intensity of character with less of the heat and sometimes headachey traits of the hefty types make a lot of sense from health, social and gastronomic points of view.

Hay Shed Hill Pinot Noir Rose 2020, $19-$22

Score: 88

Very pale in the current fashion, this young Margaret River rosé offers a delicate strawberry/cherry fragrance with a light herbal touch. It's fresh, soft and succulent in the mouth, with a gentle whisper of fruit sweetness and a soft, clean finish. Quenching summer drinking. Screw cap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? No

Stockists include: The Wine Collective, Ultimo (NSW); East Ivanhoe Foodworks, Ivanhoe East (Vic)

Chalmers Nero d'Avola 2019, $25-$27

Score: 90

Chalmers pioneered many unorthodox grapes in Australia, and this wine marks a decade since they released their first nero d'Avola. From Heathcote, its aromas of raspberry jam, cherry and ironstone are inviting, and the palate is lightish medium-bodied, fruity, succulent, well balanced, easy to like. Screw cap; 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over two years.

Stockists include: Seddon Wine Store, Seddon (Vic); Bayswater Fine Wines, Rushcutters Bay (NSW)

Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon 2014, $95-$100

Score: 96

Very expensive white wine, but a classic. Age bestows richness and complexity to Hunter semillon that belies its low octane nature. A nose of lightly toasty notes, lemon (blossom and fruit), herbs and wax; a palate of superb finesse, plump, juicy, harmonious, lingering and dry. Lovely. Screw cap; 11.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over 10 years.

Stockists include: Porter's Liquor, Roseville (NSW); Brighton Cellars, Brighton (Vic)