Three wines to see in the Year of the Dog

The Lunar New Year is a big deal across Australia, not only for those of Chinese background, but also people with roots in lands right across South-east Asia, and plenty of European-Australians who go along for the ride. This is the Year of the Dog in the Chinese zodiac, and those born under this sign are believed to be loyal, honest and helpful to others, but with plenty of anxieties of their own. Many Asian restaurants serve special dishes for New Year and it's a great time to revisit a favourite Chinese haunt to see what's happening and celebrate the new year. Gung hei fat choy ("wishing you great happiness and prosperity") to everyone!

Rymill gt Gewurztraminer 2017 $18-$20

Score 89

There was a time when gewurztraminer was recommended by the "gweilos" (foreign devils) in the Oz wine trade as the all-purpose wine for Asian cuisine. Enlightenment changed that, but good gewurz can still work well with dishes aromatic with musky and pungent spices, exotic fruits, Sichuan pepper, coconut and the like. This Coonawarra "gt" has emphatic perfumes of lychee, rose petals and spice with rich varietal flavour and a dry backbone. Screw cap; 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? No.

Stockists include Templestowe Cellars, Templestowe (Vic); Camperdown Cellars stores (NSW).

Irrewarra Pinot Noir 2015, $62-$66

Score 94

From a vineyard near Colac, in Victoria's Western District, owned by the Calverts of the famous Irrewarra Bakery, and made by pinot expert Nick Farr, this superb young pinot fits the bill for Peking duck at a celebratory dinner. Perfumed with lifted floral scents, plum, cherry, spice and a hint of hoisin, it's silky and seamless, intense yet not heavy, with delicious balance of ripe, juicy pinot fruit, zesty acidity and superfine tannins. Lovely. Diam cork; 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over five years.

Stockists include Boccaccio Cellars, Balwyn (Vic); Best Cellars, East Sydney (NSW).

Greystone Sea Star Riesling 2016, $26-$28

Score 92

A riesling of character from the Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, New Zealand. The nose offers stone fruit, citrus and floral aromas, while a mouthful reveals good richness and depth with a slight flirtation with fruit sweetness, well balanced by some tight phenolic structure and mouth-watering acidity. Good with shellfish or abalone dishes. Screw cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Stockists include Camperdown Cellars stores (NSW); Decanters by the Bay, Port Melbourne (Vic).