Victoria's most expensive new wine ever released goes on sale today

The release of two new Yarra Valley wines today marks a new chapter in the region's history. The price tags on Levantine Hill's 2017 Optume Shiraz and 2017 Optume Cabernet Sauvignon are expected to make them Victoria's most expensive bottles of new release wine.

At $800 a bottle, they are for serious wine buffs and on price, are up there with South Australia's Penfolds Grange, the latest release of which clocked in at $950 a bottle.

Levantine Hills's aim is to put a spotlight on the Yarra Valley as a whole. Business owner Elias Jreissati says it was something his Healesville-based brand needed to do in order to raise the bar. "Pursuing goals is one thing, but I enjoy pursuing possibilities," he says.

Jreissati and winemaker Paul Bridgeman are driven by a dogged pursuit of quality.

The wines were a long time in the making and just 65 dozen bottles of the shiraz and 58 dozen of the cabernet were produced.

"We had to decide whether we'd make one variety or a blend," says Jreissati. "Ultimately, Paul's favourite grape in the world is shiraz and the Yarra Valley is known for the incredibly strong cabernet so we decided to do both individually."

The wines are a celebration of the region. Estate fruit was used in the cabernet sauvignon, while premium fruit from other growers was also used in the shiraz.

"The Yarra Valley is bigger than us," says Jreissati. "We are blessed to be in this region and there are vineyards out there that do as good-a job, if not better, than us with some of their fruit.

"Some of the upper Yarra Valley vineyards have a different climate to us so every year, we'll ask growers to submit fruit to go into that wine and if it does, we'll pay them more than double the market price. We want to encourage people to make better wine and to grow better fruit."

The goal is to produce the ultimate expression of the region's cool climate wines.

"We pick some fruit from our block a bit early, some a bit late and do numerous picks in between," says Bridgeman.

"Every time you pick something there's a difference in the flavours and aromas evolving out there. Our motto is 'the more messing around, the better the wine'."

Bridgeman's approach to winemaking was influenced by many years working in south-west France. His love for France's Rhone Valley and the Yarra runs deep.

"I grew up here, this is my home. The Yarra Valley is bigger than all of us and these wines are a showpiece of what we can do here. Rather than staring at our feet, we are lifting our eyes to the horizon."

Feedback from members of the brand's wine club (the Levantine Hill Estate's Inner Circle) after a pre-release preview was heartening.

"We were very encouraged by the feedback," says Jreissati. "We also had six bottles available for diners at the Levantine Hill restaurant thinking some might sell but they quickly went through more than 100 bottles of each. The response has been really beautiful and overwhelmingly strong.

"When we started Levantine Hill in 2015 people gave us a year or two before we would go broke because they said the Yarra Valley could not support an $80 wine or $125 wine which was where Samantha's Paddock [Melange Traditionnel blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, cabernet franc and malbec] was pitched at.

"It was the most expensive wine in the Valley at the time. Now there are more wineries here that have $80 or $100 wines than you can count on one hand."

Bridgeman is conscious that the $800 price tag isn't for everyone.

"We are well aware that we've opened ourselves up for kicking, particularly in terms of price. Are we supposed to form an orderly queue and it's only when you've achieved a certain number of years that you can do this?"

After six Levantine Hill vintages, Jreissati says 'no'.

"We want to continue to push the envelope. We can't rest on our laurels and I think this is a showpiece of what we can do. It's also about the Yarra Valley, Victoria and winemaking in Australia."

Levantine Hill Optume is available to purchase online at levantinehill.com.au, or in person at the Levantine Hill cellar door, Armadale Cellars in Melbourne and Moncur Cellars in Sydney.