At Tucker, the sandwiches are the best thing since, well, sliced bread

Tucker, Randwick

30 Clovelly Road, Randwick

9398 9222, tuckerrandwick.com

★★★

The lowdown

Main attractions: Cafe classics done right

Must-try: Caramel slice

Insta-worthy dish: Poached chicken sandwich

Prices: $7-24

Tea: Coffee Masters of Australia and Prana Chai, from $3.50

Coffee: Coffee Masters of Australia, $3.50

Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options: Yes, plenty

Open: Mon-Fri 6am-3pm, Sat-Sun 7am-3pm

When it's done right, there's no food more perfect than a sandwich.

I know. It's controversial. Sandwiches. They're not edgy (actually, they're kind of daggy). They're not new (very old, in fact). They're not a smoothie bowl (not at all).

But the humble sambo is a feat nonetheless. They're infinitely adaptable, hugely satisfying and, of course, delicious. Plus, everyone likes them. You'd be hard-pressed to find anyone from the age of two up who doesn't love a good sambo.

So why are they so often disappointing? Sandwiches are, at their core, simple things – two slices of bread and a good filling – and yet so many places get them wrong. From lacklustre bread to measly fillings and spreads, there are so many sandwich sins committed across Sydney.

Not here, though.

At Tucker, the sandwiches are hefty doorstops. They're sandwiches done right. I've got the poached chicken sandwich in my hands (please note the plural), and it's a thing of great beauty. A slab of perfectly poached, juicy chicken is embedded in the thick, soft bread (chewy bread is not for sandwiches), along with a slick of citrus dill aioli and a few green leaves (note to cafes who insist on loading sambos with greens: please don't. Greens are great – but sandwiches are not where they shine). It's tasty. It's filling. It's the perfect lunch. My dining companion takes care of the pastrami on rye (layers of thinly sliced pastrami dressed with mustard, sauerkraut and pickles) and declares it a winner, too.

Like sandwiches themselves, Tucker isn't exactly new. The former Parc Cafe, on a quiet corner of Clovelly Road just up from Centennial Park, rebranded itself to Tucker earlier this year, with a renewed focus on classic cafe staples and excellent, healthy takeaway foods. It's a move that's clearly loved by locals – the place is packed not just with people enjoying their lunch, but also those stopping by to grab a risotto or salad for dinner that night.

There's a lot of attention to detail: the bacon and egg roll comes on a milk bun, with a punchy tomato relish. The fried chicken burger is a mouthful and a half of crunchy chicken, refreshing slaw and creamy mayo. The smoked trout salad might just be the prettiest thing you see all week.

While the food is a knockout, service can be patchy: everyone is friendly, but a little focus would go a long way. My takeaway salad doesn't come with cutlery (tricky) and I wait a good 10 minutes to order. But these are small matters, easily fixed.

If you have room after your sandwich (and I highly suggest you make some), take a walk to the pastry cabinet to see what the kitchen has rustled up. Is it carrot cake, topped with a smear of cream cheese frosting? Maybe it's a sweet pie, filled with seasonal berries. I choose the caramel slice, a thick finger of chocolate, shortbread and caramel that, sadly for me, I finish in about 10 seconds flat. It was that good.

Like sandwiches, Tucker isn't about being clever or quirky. It's not about reinventing the wheel. But that might be where its very cleverness lies: in doing simple things very, very well, it's earned its reputation as one of the best cafes in the East.

In the area

Kake Kafe, 17 Clovelly Road

Another Randwick veteran, this cosy cafe turns out old-fashioned pastries and excellent brekkies. Great for families and mother's groups.

Centennial Yoga Studio, 24A Clovelly Road

Though it's just a short walk from bustling Avoca Street, this tranquil, light-filled yoga studio will transport you to another world. With classes for every fitness level, this is the perfect place to unwind.

Terry Wright Meats, 32 Clovelly Road

We should all be so lucky to have a local butcher as good as this. An amazing, diverse selection of meats, plus spices, condiments and other pantry staples.

Blue Bottle Art Studio, 48 Clovelly Road

Whether you're in the market for something new on your walls, or you just want to learn a little more about the process yourself, Bluebottle has you covered. There are plenty of kids' art classes (including school holiday options), but we love the sound of Paint and Sip – private art classes for you and your mates, with a special guest appearance by your good friend, wine. Sign us up.