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First look: Cafe Meadow opens in Canberra's Odgers Lane

Jil Hogan
Jil Hogan

Meadow. Co-owner Nathan Sami inside the new Civic cafe.
Meadow. Co-owner Nathan Sami inside the new Civic cafe.Karleen Minney

If you don't believe a grungey alleyway in Civic could be a place for rest and relaxation, new cafe Meadow hopes to change your mind .

The cafe in Odgers Lane is the creation of Nathan Sami and Carlo Krikowa. Krikowa is one half of boy and girl co, the Canberra-based sustainable furniture company he runs with wife Anita, known for their pallet furniture. Sami has quite a unique background, having worked both in hospitality and in the church as a pastor.

The two met by chance at an art gallery years ago and instantly connected - Sami even officiated at Carlo and Anita's wedding.

Meadow has taken over the space of previous venue, Loading Zone.
Meadow has taken over the space of previous venue, Loading Zone.Karleen Minney
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They have been talking about the idea of starting a cafe for just over a year, with the focus firmly on creating a sustainable business, with well-considered dishes. Reading through the menu, it isn't completely obvious at first that it's completely vegetarian - and that's the point.

"The plant-based menu is an expression of part of what sustainability looks like for us," said Sami.

"I'm not even a vegetarian myself, and even I am going on this journey of what it looks like to consume more sustainably."

New Civic laneway cafe, Meadow.
New Civic laneway cafe, Meadow. Karleen Minney

"We've made sure the portions are generous, they're really fun, they're really considered, and it's like a form of vegetarian where you don't miss the meat."

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The short all-day menu ranges from porridge, toast and the Meadow roll (fried haloumi, a sous vide egg, relish and chipotle on a brioche bun), to tacos, a salad, a burger, three toasties and a kids menu.

Lunch of a toastie and drink of your choice is also available to order via their website and for same-day pick up, and it comes in a cute lunchbox, reminicent of days visiting the tuckshop.

Produce is all very local - there will soon be a map on the wall pinpointing where everything comes from in the Canberra region - and coffee is from Melbourne's Seven Seeds.

Meadow is open for breakfast and lunch Monday to Friday from 7am-2pm, and then on Saturdays from 8am-2pm. Weekend brunch will be a more relaxed affair, with live music and there are plans in the future to roll out some fake grass for laneway yoga.

The duo had initially planned to open a venue in Sydney, before the Odgers Lane space, formerly Loading Zone cafe, opened up. Tucked away from the bustle of some of the city's main streets, the undercover outdoor seating area is surprisingly quiet and relaxating.

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"This was a happenstance moment. We stumbled across Loading Zone and the opportunity presented itself," he said.

"We were really excited because particularly with our sustainability ethos, this actually really fit with not having to create a whole space or put in all this new infrastructure but to repurpose another space which had lost its first life and was looking for a second life."

Sami said they also have plans for monthly pay-as-you-feel dinner events, organised by their chef Adrianne Davo, which will support local not-for-profit organisations.

Meadow is open now. Odgers Lane, Canberra. meadowlife.com.au.

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Jil HoganJil Hogan is an food and lifestyle reporter at The Canberra Times.

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