From bistros to bakeries, where to find Sydney's best French food

French food is enjoying a renaissance in Sydney, re-emerging with a fresh sense of adventure.

La nouvelle vague, or new wave, forgo stuffiness in favour of friendly neighbourhood bistros, bustling brasseries and bakeries filled with golden, buttery pastries.

Some, such as Bistro Papillon, have embraced social media trends by introducing raclette, the original cheese pull, to the Instagram generation. Others, such as Hubert, have reinvented classic dishes with an unexpected Asian twist (see: escargot with briny XO sauce).

While French cuisine deserves year-round celebration, the approach of Bastille Day, France's national day, on July 14 provides a welcome excuse to check off some of the best French dishes Sydney has to offer.

For almond croissants, visit Lode

The burnished shell of Lode's sugar-dusted almond croissant pulls away in buttery flakes to reveal a soft frangipane filling. It's a viennoiserie lover's dream, but it only gets better from there. "Ours isn't your typical almond croissant," a spokesperson for Lode tells Good Food. "In addition to the almond filling we add a light vanilla cream and spiced poached pears."

487 Crown Street, Surry Hills, lodepies.com

For escargot, visit Hubert

Snails are typically served inside their shells with a generous slathering of green, garlicky butter. But not at French restaurant Hubert. Head chef Alexis Besseau adds a Chinese twist with a house-made XO sauce butter. "It's a spicy, buttery dish that has a little hit without overpowering the taste of the snails," Besseau says. "It's one of the best dishes we have on the menu. We sold around 300 snails just last week."

15 Bligh Street, Sydney, 02 9232 0881, swillhouse.com/venues/restaurant-hubert

For galettes, visit Four Frogs

At Four Frogs, a batter made with house-milled buckwheat flour, egg and salt is expertly swirled in a cast-iron pan before being artfully folded around combinations such as ham, Swiss cheese and egg, or prosciutto, goat's cheese, walnuts and honey. For the full experience, pair your earthy, savoury galette with mulled French cider during winter.

30 St Pauls Street, Randwick, 02 9398 3818, fourfrogs.com.au

For raclette, visit Bistro Papillon

Social media users have long been captivated by the sight of bubbling molten cheese rippling onto plates of potatoes, pickles and cured meats. At Bistro Papillon, raclette the hearty Savoy dish has been so popular it has moved from monthly special to menu staple. "We source a carefully selected high quality cheese that has just the right fat content," says co-owner Xavier Huitorel. "This will ensure the best melting experience."

Bastille Day: Bistro Papillon is offering a $130-a-head five-course dinner menu of French classics such as escargots de Bourgogne and coq au vin from Thursday, July 14 to Saturday, July 16.

98 Clarence Street, Sydney, 02 9262 2402, bistropapillon.com.au

For steak frites, visit Bistrot 916

Australians' French plat du jour is, without a doubt, steak frites. At Bistrot 916 the Rangers Valley rib-eye is cooked to medium-rare, then served with a creamy peppercorn sauce. Riff on the classic by pairing your fries with mushroom, lobster or duck.

22 Challis Avenue, Potts Point, 02 9167 6667, bistrot916.com

For French onion soup, visit Macleay St Bistro

The French onion soup at Macleay St Bistro in Potts Point is every bit as rich, beefy and fragrant as you'd hope for. Owner Phillip Fikkers says the onions are slowly caramelised in butter, cooked in a twice-reduced beef and veal stock, then crowned with a crouton topped with bubbling comte cheese.

Bastille Day: Macleay St Bistro is marking Bastille Day with a $110-a-head four-course lunch and dinner menu on Thursday, July 14 that includes chicken liver parfait, duck breast and profiteroles.

73A Macleay Street, Potts Point, 02 9358 489, macleaystbistro.com.au

For baguettes, visit Goodwood Bakeshop

Marrickville's favourite bakery produces a flavourful semi-sourdough baguette – sesame, poppy, fennel or caraway seeds optional. Co-owner Alex Alewood says they use white and rye sourdough levains, wholewheat flour in-house milled barley malt and only a small amount of commercial yeast to create a tasty riff on the French staple. Turn up at 7.30am to score one fresh out of the oven.

297 Marrickville Road, Marrickville, 0420 543 837, goodwoodbakeshop.com.au

For French desserts, visit Frenchies

Delicate French pastries and desserts are not what one expects when visiting a brewery, but Frenchies' accompanying bistro boasts one of the best creme brulees in town. Pastry chef Celine Vendeville trained atat the Michelin-starred Hôtel Barrière Le Westminster in Le Touquet, France before stepping into Frenchies' Rosebery kitchen. Her dessert offerings change seasonally, but might include her modern take on the classic Mont Blanc, raspberry tart with vanilla custard cream or warm chocolate fondant and vanilla ice-cream.

For Bastille Day: The kitchen staff are leaning into their French roots, serving a four-course menu until Saturday, July 16. There will be light, fish mousse dumplings (pikes quenelles), cassoulet Montalbanaise and creme brulee ($85 a head).

Shop 6, 61-71 Mentmore Avenue, Rosebery, 02 8964 3171, frenchiesbistroandbrewery.com.au

For charcuterie, visit Loulou

Picnic like the French with a soft, grassy patch by the harbour, a rare moment of sunshine, and a wicker basket packed with charcuterie from Milsons Point favourite Loulou. There are rotisserie chickens, terrines and pâté en croûte at the traiteur, prepared by French-born charcutier Cyprien Picard (formerly of Victor Churchill).

For Bastille Day: On Thursday, July 14, Loulou is serving an a la carte menu of French classics. The piece de resistance will be whole duck a l'orange, aged for 14 days then served three ways for two to four diners.

61 Lavender Street, Milsons Point, 02 8000 7800, loulou.sydney