Fab five: Meet the 2020 Citi Chef of the Year finalists

In some ways it's easier than ever to become a chef – staff shortages mean kitchens are desperate for young talent – but to be truly great? That's a different story. Each of the five finalists for the Good Food Guide 2020's Citi Chef of the Year has upped stumps to improve.

Dan Hunter, from Brae in Birregurra, washed pots and pans in Scottish pubs, trained at Melbourne institution Langton's and landed at Mugaritz in San Sebastian before returning to his home state of Victoria to shake up the food scene.

British-born Lennox Hastie trained in several serious Michelin-starred kitchens before heading to the Basque country to train at Asador Etxebarri, where he caught the fire bug which he nurtures today at his flame-powered Sydney restaurant Firedoor.

Newcastle born-and-raised Rob Cockerill kept his training local for a short time before heading to London to work with the Soho House hospitality group.

But it was his time working under Peter Gilmore at Quay that really prepared him for the larger adventure of helping to run Bennelong Restaurant across the water at the Sydney Opera House.

Queensland-born Alanna Sapwell, head chef of Brisbane's Arc, trained at The River House in Noosa before heading to Sydney to manage the kitchen at Saint Peter under Josh Niland.

And chefs Federica Andrisani and Oskar Rossi met and fell in love in Italy before Oskar brought Federica back to his home town of Hobart in 2015 to open Fico. The lesson? With a generously stamped passport comes great power.

These are the finalists for the Good Food Guide 2020 Citi Chef of the Year. The winner will be announced at the launch on September 30.

Federica Andrisani + Oskar Rossi, Fico, Hobart TAS

Chefs Federica Andrisani and Oskar Rossi's open kitchen is a blur of action. Skill levels are high, produce is local, and the cooking is clean and vivid. In spite of the striking, sometimes stark, presentation, Fico has a relaxed, come-as-you-are feel.

Rob Cockerill, Bennelong, Sydney NSW

Chef Rob Cockerill is in charge of the carte in this history-soaked dining room under the soaring sails of Sydney Opera House. It has all the dazzle of sister restaurant Quay, only with a more approachable, less tricked-up menu.

Lennox Hastie, Firedoor, Surry Hills NSW

There's something primeval about dining at Firedoor. Watching the chefs tend the wood-fuelled grills, ovens and firepits is like witnessing the birth of cooking itself. Yet from this very fundamental, direct heat, Lennox Hastie manages to astound with his precise, intuitive and pitch-perfect dishes.

Dan Hunter, Brae, Birregurra, VIC

The singular dining experience at chef Dan Hunter's renovated farmhouse restaurant begins with a slow approach up the driveway past flourishing vegetable beds. It's produce destined to star in a 10-course tasting menu of beautifully balanced, intelligent cooking that's also a barrow-load of fun.

Alanna Sapwell, Arc, Brisbane, QLD

Brisbane-born young gun Alanna Sapwell moved back to the Sunshine State from Sydney's Saint Peter in late 2018 to take on this light, airy riverside pavilion and adjacent wine bar, and she's nailing it with relaxed, confident small dishes that display great clarity of flavour.

The Good Food Guide's third annual national edition, with hats awarded across Australia, will be launched on September 30 with our presenting partners Vittoria Coffee and Citi. The Good Food Guide 2020 will be on sale from October 1 in newsagencies and bookstores, and is also available to pre-order at thestore.com.au/gfg20, $29.99 with free shipping.