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What's next for Australia's top chefs?

Myffy Rigby
Myffy Rigby

Inside <i>Good Food Guide</I> Bar of the Year, Arlechin, which has had plenty of people coming in offering congratulations.
Inside Good Food Guide Bar of the Year, Arlechin, which has had plenty of people coming in offering congratulations.Luis Enrique Ascui

The inaugural national Good Food Guide Awards kicked off with an 800-strong party of epic proportions last Monday, October 16. Hats and awards were handed out, Champagne was drunk.

The big issue, after the heads of those triumphant chefs clear and the dust settles after all that razzle dazzle, is the trickle down effect of those accolades, when it comes to the day-to-day business of running a restaurant.

Taking home the Bar of the Year award came as a surprise to the Grossi family, owners of Melbourne's Arlechin, which opened in July.

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Guy Grossi says they didn't even realise they'd been nominated and his son, Carlo, had to wing his acceptance speech on the night.

"Undoubtedly winning an award does make a big impact," says Grossi, who also owns heavy-hitting two hatter Grossi Florentino among other businesses. "We've had a myriad of messages of support from peers and lots of people coming in offering congratulations. But it's early doors yet."

For the Little Paddington Restaurant That Could, winning Best New Restaurant for Saint Peter has meant bookings have increased tenfold. "For a small business it is promotion that money cannot buy," say owners Josh and Julie Niland. "We received a phenomenal amount of bookings and emails this past week."

Josh Niland says Saint Peter has received a phenomenal amount of bookings since being named Best New Restaurant.
Josh Niland says Saint Peter has received a phenomenal amount of bookings since being named Best New Restaurant.Louise Kennerley

Sixpenny's Daniel Puskas, winner of Citi Chef of the Year, said the greatest part of winning has been the response from the community. "Some diners mention the award and most are excited and surprised that it was given to a chef from a small restaurant in Stanmore," he says. "I've been getting lots of nice comments when I'm taking the kids to school and daycare."

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The burden of expectation affects different businesses in different ways. Since the awards, Puskas has seen an increase in reservations, and says some diners have higher expectations when eating at the restaurant, but for the most part, Puskas says people are just excited to eat there.

"The award and two hats does bring with it increased diner expectations, but none higher than those we impose on ourselves," say the Nilands. "We will meet these expectations by continuing to do what we love: showcasing Australian fish with simplicity and precision."

Some diners' expectations are higher now when they visit Sixpenny restaurant in Sydney.
Some diners' expectations are higher now when they visit Sixpenny restaurant in Sydney.Supplied

The national Good Food Guide, on shelves across the nation now, features 500 restaurant reviews and takes the hats to all corners of Australia. A total of 267 restaurants across the country were awarded one hat or more. A restaurant needs a minimum score of 15 out of 20 to obtain a hat.

Grossi says the family, which owns several Melbourne restaurants, has also been in the position of losing hats in the past. "The biggest impact is on the team, rather than the business. It's deflating. But it makes you analyse what you can improve and pushes you to do better."

The national Good Food Guide 2018, in partnership with Citi and Vittoria, is available from newsagencies, bookstores and via thestore.com.au/goodfood, RRP $29.99

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Myffy RigbyMyffy Rigby is the former editor of the Good Food Guide.

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