Review: Hope St Radio brings the joy of spring to Collingwood

★★★★

THEME: JOY OF SPRING

If eating out is about connection and community – and I think it largely is, now more precious than ever – it makes sense that it feels good to dine at open-hearted, intertwined Hope St Radio. Its namesake is an indie internet radio station, broadcasting since 2017, largely itinerant, but now at home in this canteen-cool dining room, itself housed in the Collingwood Yards arts hub that has vivified the old Collingwood Tech.

Hope St founder Pete Baxter and food-and-wine collaborator Jack Shaw connected with pandemic pasta queen and pop-upper Ellie Bouhadana, inviting her to lead the kitchen.

They opened in May and snuck in 11 weekends of clamouring trade before the latest lockdown. Reopening feels joyful and orchestral, a garlicky, salty spring parade in honour of gathering and renewal.

If food was a hug, Bouhadana's would be an archetypal mama embrace that holds you at arm's length to appreciate you, pulls you in for a huge squeeze, then steps back again to check you're really this beautiful.

The focaccia is worth 100 cuddles: tall and pillowy with a crisp golden crust, it's all oil, salt, lift and love. Sweet, zingy sardines are from Port Phillip Bay's last remaining net fishery (we need to save it, stand by for my campaign). They're butterflied, herbed and vinegared, and served with bright slashes of roasted pepper.

A spring crudite plate showcases great local producers like Ramarro Farm. Their purple cauliflower, plus baby carrots, radishes, whatever's pert and pickable, are arranged on a plate like a relaxed tumble of teenagers on a beach. A dish like this says a lot about how it feels to be in this kitchen. You sense joy in produce, almost hear the chat as leaves are washed and asparagus trimmed, you feel a bright, warm kindness.

It could be the pet nat whispering but I reckon it's true. Hope St Radio is a gorgeous next-gen hangout, a disseminator of music, sure, but a space that also embodies generosity, spirit and – yes – hope. I'm here for it.

Hope St Radio

35 Johnston Street, Collingwood, no phone hopestradio.community

Open Thursday-Sunday 3pm-late (extended hours from December)

Prices Snacks $4-$17; pasta $24-$26

Reminder Bookings recommended; have vaccine passport ready

Also try

Golden Gate Hotel

There are classics aplenty at this popular pub but the spring menu also includes pan-fried gnocchi with pea and sunflower pesto, and romanesco-stuffed zucchini flowers. The prime position is outside under a jaunty striped umbrella.

238 Clarendon Street, South Melbourne, 03 9810 0050, goldengatehotel.com.au

Lune Croissant

Bakeries can do spring too! Lune's November specials include a stunning pea danish that marries shatter-crisp, buttery pastry with garden goodness, and a cruffin with mango, lime and chilli. These ones are available in the Fitzroy store only.

119 Rose Street, Fitzroy, lunecroissanterie.com

Copycat

The old After the Tears space next to the Classic Cinema has been reimagined as Copycat, a drop-in spot before or after a movie, or a dedicated date night venue. Food is from Kevin Middleton (ex-Donovans): there's ceviche with finger lime and pickled jalapeno, and leek tarte tatin with hazelnut dukkah.

9b Gordon Street, Elsternwick, copycatelsternwick.com.au