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A user's guide to Barangaroo House

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

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After four years of planning, research, design and development, Barangaroo House is open for hot chips and caviar.

"We were the first to sign on at Barangaroo and the last to open," says chef and restaurateur Matt Moran, who owns and operates the expansive venue with Solotel hospitality group.

Moran is tight-lipped on how much the House cost to build ("let's just say it was more than 10 bucks") but there's serious money on display in textures of brass and marble, Tallowwood floors and artwork by Luke Storrier.

Bea restaurant at Barangaroo House.
Bea restaurant at Barangaroo House.Cole Bennetts
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It might be Sydney's most anticipated and inclusive restaurant opening of the decade. While food lovers swooned over the glamour of Bennelong and punk-rock attitude of Momofuku, Barangaroo House is pitching to everyone. That's your great aunt visiting from Narrabri, local workers at knock-off, and cashed-up couples chasing Krug and oysters.

With chef Cory Campbell (ex-Noma and Vue de Monde) and former Rockpool Bar and Grill sommelier John Paul Wilkinson leading food and booze across three levels, there's a lot of Barangaroo House to take in.

Here's our user's guide from the ground up.

Asparagus and tyrant ants at Bea.
Asparagus and tyrant ants at Bea. Supplied

House Bar

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A casual indoor-outdoor bar and eatery that encircles the building. There's 12 beers on tap and Campbell is rotating chicken and lamb daily on the spit for fancy kebabs.

Best for: after-work sessions; family lunches; Croc-wearing tourists.

Fun finger food: Sea urchin and orange jam sandwich at Smoke.
Fun finger food: Sea urchin and orange jam sandwich at Smoke.Supplied

To eat: chicken pita with cumin and raisin coleslaw ($17); prawn bucket with bread and cocktail sauce ($28); hot chips with chicken salt ($9).

To drink: Lord Nelson Three Sheets draught ($10); house spritz with Regal Rogue vermouth, elderflower, grapefruit soda, prosecco and orange ($16).

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Open: Daily 11am-midnight.

Bea

The 180-seat "don't call it fine dining" restaurant on the first level where Campbell flexes his skill on the wood-fired grill. There's a strong focus on Australian ingredients and Wilkinson has created a wine list of old-school crowd pleasers smattered with next wave producers.

Best for: long weekend lunches; midweek business meetings; 50th birthday blow outs.

To eat: tomato with rockmelon and native tea ($10); roast spatchcock with preserved lemon and riberry ($40); aged Southern Highlands whole roast duck ($130).

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To drink: Clonakilla 2017 Riesling ($15/$75); By Farr 2012 Sangreal Pinot Noir ($36/$175).

Open: Daily noon-4pm; 5:30-midnight.

Smoke

Sydney's newest rooftop bar with views to the city skyline and Darling Harbour. A champagne-focused drinks list lends itself to a small-plate menu of caviar tins, Sydney rocks and sea urchin popping up in unlikely places. A dirty martini with sea urchin brine? Yeah, alright then.

Best for: sunset cocktails; corporate credit cards; chicken-skin skewers and whisky.

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To eat: Moreton Bay bug and calamari skewers ($22); smoked brisket doughnuts ($12); sea urchin and orange jam toastie ($22).

To drink: vodka martini with citrus and a caviar tincture ($24); Dom Perignon 2009 ($55/$360).

Open: Mon-Wed 3pm-midnight; Thu-Sun noon-midnight.

35 Barangaroo Avenue, Sydney, 02 8587 5400, barangaroohouse.com.au

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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