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Black Hide is now open for caviar and steak at Treasury Brisbane

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

Black Hide's tomahawk for two.
Black Hide's tomahawk for two.Supplied

What's the low down?

There's now a very nice room in the casino to eat expensive steak and drink wine.

The Gambaro Group has opened an offshoot of its popular Caxton Street steakhouse at the Treasury and while you don't need to be a high roller to enjoy the wagyu selection, it certainly helps.

The Parlour Room at Black Hide by Gambaro, Treasury Brisbane.
The Parlour Room at Black Hide by Gambaro, Treasury Brisbane.Supplied
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When does it open?

Friday, June 8 for dinner, rump fans.

What's the cause for excitement?

The entrance to Black Hide's private Black Label Room.
The entrance to Black Hide's private Black Label Room. Supplied

Does Brisbane need another steakhouse? Absolutely not. Walter's, Blackbird and the existing Black Hide were enough to keep wagyu lovers of south-east Queensland satisfied for years. However, the Treasury building's grand old heritage bones deserve a New York-style grill and gee whiz, the Gambaros have come through with a handsome restaurant. There is much sleek timber, leather and gunmetal, and the dining room is the kind of high-ceilinged space that encourages drinking three martinis before you even think about ordering lunch.

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What's on the menu?

Gambaro Group executive chef Lukas McEwan oversees a kitchen sending out meatballs, calamari, scallops, oysters, lobster, ragu pappardelle, Moreton Bay bugs with lemon caper butter, and duck breast with caramelised witlof.

The 15 steaks are all served with wagyu-fat potatoes.
The 15 steaks are all served with wagyu-fat potatoes.Supplied

There's also a few steak options – 15 to be exact – including wagyu rump cap ($42.50), 28-day dry-aged angus rib-eye ($85) and marble-score 9+ wagyu eye fillet ($120).

If you really want push the boat out, Beluga caviar is available at $600 for 30-grams and the big-swinging wine list features a 2011 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux that's yours for $3850. If the evening's pokie wins don't permit that kind of spending, the 1996 Penfolds Grange might be a better option at $1700. (Note: there is a respectable selection of bottles priced below $100, too. It's not all burgundy and prestige blends.)

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Anything else I need to know?

All steaks are served with wagyu-fat potatoes but for a touch of green you'll need to add the mushy peas and pancetta ($9.50).

Open Tue-Fri noon-3pm; Tue-Thu & Sun 5:30-10pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-11pm.

Black Hide by Gambaro at Treasury Brisbane, Queen Street Mall, Brisbane, 07 3306 8420, treasurybrisbane.com.au

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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