With its gumleaf smoked ice-cream and an ingredient list littered with wattleseed and pepperberry, the new Bodalla ice-cream shop on Queens Street in Woollahra has brought a bit of the bush to the big smoke.

"It's like a little portal to the South Coast," says Jane Stuart, whose family owns the iconic Bodalla Dairy, 40 minutes' drive from Batemans Bay "It's almost more country than our dairy shed in Bodalla.

"When Mum [Bodalla Dairy owner Sandra McCuaig] isn't in the smokehouse, she's been driving the ice-cream up to stock the store."

As of next week, Queen Street's newest addition will start selling Bodalla Dairy cheeses as well.

If the old-school fitout with soft lighting and hand-painted windows feels like warm and familiar territory, the ice-cream flavours offer less chartered turf.

"Let's Go Camping is a smoked base with a butterscotch seam and macadamia praline; Go Wild is lemon myrtle with honey and a ginger crumb," Stuart says.

Early Woollahra hits include Kakadu plum and rum for adults, and a classic milk and honey for the kids.

Its salted caramel is made from scratch starting with milk from the dairy at 5am. "It's milk and extra cream and sugar pasteurised straight away. Then aged for a day before churning," Stuart says.

Sounds good, happy licking.

Open Mon-Fri 2pm-7pm; Sat-Sun noon-8pm.

148 Queen Street, Woollahra, bodalladairy.com.au