Chula brings Mexican freshness back to Kings Cross

What's the lowdown?

The old Hugo's Pizza site in Kings Cross has been zapped back to life as a handsome new Mexican restaurant full of earthy tones and vintage cabinets stocked with tequila. It opens on Wednesday October 11.

Who's behind it?

Peter Lew and Nicole Galloway, the couple at the helm of Potts Point's Fei Jai Cantonese restaurant and Barrio Cellar taqueria in the CBD. The pair also operated Barrio Chino opposite Chula before calling time on the Mexican joint in early 2016, citing the NSW government's lockout laws as a reason behind the closure.

Chef Alvaro Valenzuela has moved to Sydney from Mexico City to lead the kitchen and says he wants to showcase "the freshness that is Mexican food."

Why should you care?

Because the Cross has seen a lot of venues shut their doors since the lockout laws were introduced in 2014 and not many venues open.

With the former Hugo's Lounge site relaunching as Flamingo Lounge in the same block a fortnight ago, Chula's arrival is another positive sign the area might be getting its groove back. The food doesn't look too bad, either.

What's on the menu?

The team aims to "introduce Sydney to a more refined version of Mexican food". This translates to dishes such as scallop aguachile (a chilli and lime-spiked ceviche-style number), whole snapper cooked over charcoal, smoked beef ribs and tostada "mariscos coctel" (that's Spanish for seafood cocktail).

The kitchen tips its hat to Hugo's with chorizo tlayuda, an Oaxacan street food that's something like the Mexican version of pizza. Expect a plate-sized tortilla layered with sausage, salsa and cheese. Also expect it to appear on more Sydney menus in the next 12 months – gluten-free cheesy things have much appeal.

Anything else worth noting?

Agave Cartel founder Reece Griffiths is on the pour and he's created a live-wire cocktail list full of fruit, mezcal and tequila. A late-closing back bar splendid with handmade tiles and agave plants looks like a beaut spot for ceviche and margaritas this summer.

33 Bayswater Road, Potts Point

Restaurant Wed-Sun 5-10.30pm; Bar Wed-Thu & Sun 6pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am