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Devon is on a roll: third Devon cafe opens in North Sydney

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Devon Cafe, North Sydney.
Devon Cafe, North Sydney.Adrian Lee

Zach Tan believes North Sydney diners are worthy of a few Heart Foundation ticks. "It's very unique, they're really into healthy options," says the Devon chef.

This probably isn't great news for Devon's signature pig's ear katsu, but the chef says dishes such as the vegie bowl full of kale, quinoa and a zucchini fritter stuffed with goat's curd has been a prime menu mover at his new cafe north of the bridge.

Devon recently opened in North Sydney after earning good reviews for its venues in Surry Hills and Barangaroo.

Slow-cooked beef ribs with sweet soy glaze, crispy eschalots, coconut mignonette and herb salad.
Slow-cooked beef ribs with sweet soy glaze, crispy eschalots, coconut mignonette and herb salad.Adrian Lee
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Tan, a one-time pharmacist and rising chef under Guillaume Brahimi, has a daytime menu covering linguine with lobster meat, and a tropical chia pudding with almond milk, organic honey and seasonal fruits.

"The Japanese shaved ice has also been popular; we use three teas in it," he says.

Devon's salmon and potato cake has made the cut, along with a pork belly and fennel sausage dish. There's also 24-hour slow-cooked beef ribs with sweet soy glaze, crispy eschalots, coconut mignonette and a herb salad.

French toast with cherry compote, chantilly cream, fresh cherries, dark chocolate cream and cherry sorbet.
French toast with cherry compote, chantilly cream, fresh cherries, dark chocolate cream and cherry sorbet.Adrian Lee

In another Devon surprise, the North Sydney venue is introducing a dinner service, allowing Tan to further flex his creative muscle.

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The latest opening won't be the last, but the next one won't be in Sydney. The hot rumour is the home of truffle-topped toasties and experimental egg dishes is hunting sites in Queensland.

Open Mon-Sat 7am-11.30am and noon-4.30pm; Wed-Sat 5pm-10pm

36 Blue Street, North Sydney, 02 8971 0377, devoncafe.com.au

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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