It isn't Rundle Mall, but there's more than a sniff of South Australia to Darlinghurst's Victoria Street.
When Jeremy Bentley swings open the doors at Eliza Food and Wine on Wednesday, February 20 he'll be the latest in a prestigious line of Adelaide emigrees on the strip.
Bentley follows Gelato Messina founder Nick Palumbo, who helped pioneer the resurgence of Victoria Street with the opening of the first Messina store, and Eugenio Maiale from A Tavola.
You can also throw in in Bentley's business partner at Eliza, his childhood friend from Adelaide, Simon Rabbitt.
Bentley took a major detour from Adelaide to the Square in London, then onto hatted Surry Hill restaurant, the Devonshire, which he shut in 2017 after light rail works took a toll on business.
If the room looks smart, Bentley doesn't want it to be formal. He's hoping customers might pop in, grab a seat at the bar and snack on something, or settle in for something longer.
The opening menu looks promising with dishes including hiramasa kingfish with buckwheat and burnt onion, and a warm vegetarian dish of roast carrot custard, black garlic, peas, pinenuts and brioche.
Eliza Food and Wine slides into the once-prized but long-empty corner site where Fez operated.
"Darlinghurst got its name from Governor Darling's wife Elizabeth Darling, who was known as Eliza," he says of the name.
Open Fri-Sun lunch; Wed-Sat dinner.
Eliza Food and Wine, Corner Victoria and Liverpool Streets, Darlinghurst.