First look at Scott Pickett's fiery Matilda

Fire in the hole. It's not long until Scott Pickett, the chef-restaurateur behind Estelle Bistro, ESP and Saint Crispin takes South Yarra with his fiery, mod-Oz, hopefully-casual-enough-for-regulars restaurant Matilda.

The kitchen will be a gas-free operation a la Lennox Hastie's Firedoor, with a menu embracing fish, smoke and a good whack of Australiana.

So there's oysters with smoked marrow, tiny salmon roe tartlets and a kangaroo tartare. Things will ramp up to dressed spanner crab with hot flatbreads, Lakes Entrance octopus with burnt bay leaf and macadamia and a couple of whole grilled fish flavoured with foraged native scrub. There's a steak, obviously, but king of the meats is looking to be a whole duck, body smoked, legs confited served with figs and its own juices.

It's a lunch and dinner operation. If you want breakfast, you'll have to book into the $650-a-night suites in the new Sue Carr-designed United Places hotel upstairs (Carr shaped luxe Mornington hotel Jackalope).

At Matilda, Projects of Imagination have spearheaded the design, throwing down a natural palate of rich timber and ochre steel. You'll enter to the kitchen in full fiery swing, with ringside seats to get a close-up of chefs singeing themselves (there are perches down the back at the pastry section if you prefer) big group tables, plush dark banquettes and a separate bar downstairs that can be sectioned off as a private dining and event space.

Clint Fox from the Atlantic Group is steering the good ship booze, which will run the gamut in wine from high to low and skinsy to classic while on the spirits front they're serving their own gin. Stacey Ainsley (ex Bistro Guillaume) and Matthew Bjordal (ex-Qualia) are on the floor.

Doors swing open June 1.

Open daily noon-1pm, 159 Domain Road, South Yarra, 03 9089 6668, www.matilda159.com