First stage of Kuro opens on Kent Street

To say a 10-seat degustation fine diner is against the trend in Sydney is as obvious as saying chicken doesn't belong on pizza.

Other top-end venues might be shutting up shop (Est., Bridge Room) but the first stage in restaurateur Alan Wong's plan opens on Friday.

"We're sticking to what we believe in," the Kuro co-owner says.

Of the four offerings, a daytime brew bar selling coffee and snacks opens this week, alongside the a la carte Kuro Dining and a bar section.

The 10-seat Teramoto by Kuro opens in December, around the same time lunch will begin at Kuro Dining.

The cleverly designed fittings include daytime fixtures such as espresso machines that retract at night.

And the first stage is pretty slick. Kuro Dining head chef Nobu Maruyama (Bar H) worked on the menu with co-owner Taka Teramoto (Restaurant Pages, Paris).

"The black market angus beef is the hero dish," Wong says.

It's joined on the opening menu by a smoked wagyu tartare, charred edamame and confit duck with wasabi celeriac.

The wine list leans toward boutique Australian producers and the mixologists are Japanese, with quirky drink names such as Lava Flow of Mt Fuji.

The interior is smart, but highlights rather than hides any imperfections.

"The Japanese have a tradition of repairing ceramics with real gold, [so] we've filled cracks in the floor with gold paint," Wong says.

Various hours, see website.

368 Kent Street, Sydney, 02 9326 1350, kurosydney.com