Flyover Fritterie serves up pakora fritters in Sydney CBD

If you're naturally indecisive, here's a trend for you. Recent openings in Sydney have one thing in common. It isn't the cuisine or a new burger craze – it's that they all skip the War and Peace menu in favour of a hero menu item.

At Simply Hummus in Darlinghurst it's, well, you guessed it: hummus. Over at the new Sate Haus in Surry Hills, the focus is on Indonesian-inspired satay.

Gunjan Aylawadi has just swung open the doors at Flyover Fritterie in the Sydney CBD, its four menu items all a variation of pakora, or crunch vegetable fritter.

"Growing up in India the idea of one place doing lots of things doesn't make sense to me. You find the person who does one thing well," she says.

"In the north they call them pakora, in central India and a little south bhaji," she says of her core product, which she has added the westernised "fritter" name to.

"They're all made with chickpea flour. But we might serve it with pickles or put it into a burger [with pickled beetroot and tamarind chutney]," she says.

If the menu is small, the space is also diminutive. Aylawadi has squeezed her start-up into a 10-metre area that once housed the building's service pipes.

Having grown up in Delhi, she's keen to also offer Sydneysiders an authentic way to wash the food down: Indian-style spicy chai, freshly brewed in small batches and made with Bonsoy. It's served hot or iced.

Open Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-4pm; Thu 9am-5.30pm.

389 George Street, Sydney, flyoverfritterie.com.