The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Former Paringa Estate chef Julian Hills opens Navi in Yarraville

Anna Webster

Fermented autumn vegetables from Navi in Yarraville.
Fermented autumn vegetables from Navi in Yarraville.Ed Sloane

Julian Hills has drawn on both the western suburbs' industrial heritage and the Australian environment for the fitout of his first solo venture, Navi, which has opened in Yarraville.

With help from his architect brother, Hills has worked lots of earthy reds, gumtree greys and eucalyptus greens into the design for the 25-seat restaurant. The granite kitchen pass, black bar and furniture have been made locally, and Hills has made all the plates and tableware himself.

Navi, which means "local" in Cherokee (a nod to Hills' father's heritage), will focus on local produce.

Navi owner-chef Julian Hills.
Navi owner-chef Julian Hills.Ed Sloane
Advertisement

Hills has spent the past six years at the helm of Paringa Estate restaurant, and, beside earning and retaining a chef's hat for his entire tenure, has developed relationships with farmers and growers on the Mornington Peninsula.

"For me, the farmer is key," says Hills. "Because I'm only going to be doing 100 covers a week, my arrangement with them is that whatever they grow well, I'll take. I don't need huge quantities, and I can change the menu as often as necessary."

He'll head to the peninsula every Tuesday to collect produce for the week. Expect dishes like a smoked macadamia tart with native thyme and bush tomato; or sweetbreads with shiitake, pickled karkalla and sea parsley on the $120-a-head, eight-course tasting menu. (He'll offer a shorter five-course option on Wednesdays and Thursdays.)

The 25-seat dining room at Navi, Yarraville.
The 25-seat dining room at Navi, Yarraville.Ed Sloane

The wine list is also mostly Australian, and the beers (Hop Nation and Two Birds) are brewed locally, too.

Advertisement

Open Wed to Sat 6pm-11pm.

83B Gamon Street, Yarraville, restaurantnavi.com.au

Continue this series

August hit list: Where to eat and drink in Melbourne this month
Up next
Austro's pretzel plate with cured meats, cheese and pickles.

Austro Bakery brings strudels and kugels to South Melbourne

Move over, French patisseries. An Austrian bakery is coming through.

The Duke Rooftop bar in Melbourne looks out over the Forum theatre.

Three Melbourne CBD venues raise the roof

Rain, hail or shine, three new rooftops have opened and are ready to roll.

See all stories

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement