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New life for an old Victoria street Vietnamese favourite, plus three more new Victorian venues to try

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

Thy Thy's rice vermicelli cakes with sugarcane prawns (left) and grilled beef and betel leaf.
Thy Thy's rice vermicelli cakes with sugarcane prawns (left) and grilled beef and betel leaf.Pete Dillon

Victoria's reawakening is being led by venues both old and new, with a swathe of freshly minted cafes, bars and restaurants opening their doors at long last.

If the names Thy Thy or Tho Tho bring back fond memories of excellent Vietnamese on Victoria Street, listen up: the family behind both establishments have gone all-in on a new multi-generational restaurant. Thy Thy Counter and Canteen (60-66 Victoria Street, Richmond) is a bright and fun update to the site that was Tho Tho, which the family sold in 2016 and reacquired last year. Expect a mix of old favourites (hello, lemon chicken) mixed with regional specialties such as Hanoi's bun cha (grilled pork with rice vermicelli) and lunchtime banh mi specials.

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Bar Holiday (19 Lincoln Square South, Carlton) has been itching to get a clear run, after doing the open-close dance five times since its first day back in June. Situated in the sunny warehouse that was pizza restaurant Kaprica's home, Holiday is modelled on classic neighbourhood bars of Paris, Madrid or Amsterdam, where owner Matthew Hurst lived for several years. Simple plates of food, classic cocktails, vinyl and a natural-leaning wine list await.

Snacks at Bar Holiday, a new bar in Carlton.
Snacks at Bar Holiday, a new bar in Carlton. City of Melbourne

Shabooh Shoobah (59A Melville Road, Brunswick West) treads a similar Euro path, with excellent pedigree in owners Emily Bitto and Hootan Heydari, who started wine bar Heartattack & Vine in Carlton, where they met their third partner, chef Sam Steck. He's drawing on his love of Mediterranean ingredients for simple dishes that play nicely together, such as 'nduja soldiers, bocaderos with fennel and orange, or broad beans with stracchino. Wine is the focus, but there are simple cocktails or Coburg Lager on tap. And it's walk-in friendly.

Shabooh Shoobah is a new neighbourhood bar in Brunswick West.
Shabooh Shoobah is a new neighbourhood bar in Brunswick West.Tom Campbell

Mark and Victoria Briggs of hatted seafood restaurant Sardine in East Gippsland have opened a wine bar and providore two doors up the street. Sardine Cantina (shop 1, 69 Esplanade, Paynesville) homes in on wine, cheese, charcuterie and conservas that are made beyond their doorstep, choosing to zig where others zag. Build-your-own hampers for boating and picnics are on offer or just pull up a seat for Epoisses and Chablis with views of the jetty.

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Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

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