Ginkgo brings Harbin dumplings to former Bar Brose site in Darlinghurst

The Darlinghurst site where the well-reviewed Bar Brose disappeared last year like a piece of freshly buttered Iggy's bread has a new occupant.

Ginkgo Bar & Dining opened recently in the Victoria Street site, trotting out dishes such as sea urchin and baby spinach dumplings from Harbin, capital of China's Heilongjiang province.

Ginkgo co-owner Carly Jin says her Darlinghurst landlord is a regular at her small Ultimo restaurant, Chulin, and offered her the digs.

"Harbin is a music and cultural centre," says Jin. "It's close to the north-east border of China but has Japanese, Russian and European influences. I grew up there eating bread like a sourdough, and wasabi was part [of the local diet]."

Jin is pushing hard with a dim sum menu the like of which she argues you won't find elsewhere in Australia.

Alongside the sea urchin and baby spinach combination you might find a Harbin-style sausage roll made with Chinese wine sausage.

"The pastry is made with butter, almost like a croissant," she adds. "Because Harbin is cold, we like strong flavours. The smoked pork knuckle bao (which includes 50 spices and herbs) is something you'd find in Harbin."

The late-night eatery has assembled an enviable team. Ex Lotus and Chefs Gallery Marble Ng is looking after the dumplings, bar manager Carlos Hurworth worked at Soho House in London and Ken Mehr (Belgard Kitchen, Vancouver) runs front of house.

Much of the Bar Brose interior remains, but there is a new grey colour palette, new tiles and a more industrial edge.

"We've taken a short lease with a long option after the first year," says Jin.

So if Darlinghurst takes to Harbin food, Ginkgo will be around for the long haul.

Open Mon-Thu 5pm-midnight; Fri 5pm-3am; Sat noon-4pm, 5pm-3am; Sun noon-4pm, 5pm-1am

231 Victoria Road, Darlinghurst, 02 9380 5556