Gippsland chef returns to his roots to open Bistro Grata in Traralgon

The call of the bush was too much for chef Troy Anderson. Known for his stellar work as chef at Wild Oak restaurant in the Dandenong Ranges, the former Maffra lad has returned to his roots and opened up a casual eatery in Traralgon, in the Latrobe Valley.

Called Bistro Grata, the light, bright room is decorated with images from the chef's farm (he's a former professional photographer), and wooden sculptures, again by the chef, of farm animals adorn the walls. There are well-worn chairs at linen-covered tables set with good cutlery and cloth napery.

Using his intimate knowledge of the local food system, and the pick of secret foraging sites, Anderson aims to put Gippsland's seasonal best on a plate. That might mean scallops, fresh off the boat from Corner Inlet, seared on the flat grill and dressed with rhubarb and onion jam; scallops and soft-shelled crab emerging from warm vichyssoise; or a fat puck of terrine topped with a well-dressed salad. But at the heart of Grata is the char-grill, and from this comes really good dry-aged steak.

Expect a good number of foraged native plants such as salt bush and karkalla to garnish dishes and a solid cross-section of Gippsland wines on the list.

Grata come from the Latin for "agreeable" or "welcome", and this friendly, and locally focused bistro has been warmly welcomed by Gippslanders.

Open Tue-Sat 11am-11pm.

Shop 4, 19-23 Seymour Street, Traralgon, 03 5174 7282, bistrograta.com.au