Golden Century sibling XOPP opens in Darling Square

"The Chinese doughnuts with chicken liver parfait and shao hsing wine or the salted egg yolk potato wedges on the bar menu," Billy Wong purrs.

Asking him to choose his favourite dish at XOPP isn't easy. Wong keeps trying to edge in a couple of other contenders.

And let's not forget the restaurant's signature dish. XOPP gets its name from the pipis dressed in XO sauce at the new venue's older sibling, Golden Century.

"We are so lucky to get a chef [Zachary Ng] who is from Hong Kong but has spent so much time at a restaurant like Sepia. He can do the classics yet has the experience with innovative Western cooking," he says.

XOPP is a family affair. Wong explains he leant on his parents, Eric and Linda Wong, through the process.

"Their real strength is experience, knowing how to run a big restaurant like Golden Century."

Wong's Hong Kong-based brother, Alex, was also heavily involved. Running Hong Kong-based Paring Onions Design, Alex Wong is used to managing projects from afar.

"He's just done a couple of airport lounges, one in Singapore and another in Canada. Plus he got down here [during the process]."

The circular Kengo Kuma building made for a special blank canvas. Billy Wong's favourite detailing in the 160-seater includes the "shiny, slightly reflective" Barrisol stretch ceilings, and the pendant lights.

Diners can also tuck into XO mayo prawn rolls, and scallop and edamame sang choy bao. Just save room for the pipis everyone from Rihanna to Lady Gaga have ticked on their late-night "to do" list.

Open daily 11.30am-11pm.

Mezzanine level, The Exchange, 1 Little Pier Street, Darling Square, Haymarket, 02 8030 0000, xopp.com.au