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Gordon Street Bakery is Footscray's hot new secret

Gemima Cody
Gemima Cody

The high quality French pastries can't stay on the shelf.
The high quality French pastries can't stay on the shelf.Simon Schluter

Wilhem Isaac isn't ready for you to know about his bakery yet. He opened on March 4 in Gordon Street, Footscray, which rarely gets foot traffic. His intention was to build his business slowly (right now, his only assistant is his mother, who has come over from France to help out). There's no phone, and they haven't done a social media push.

And yet so far the bakery has sold out of everything long before the 5pm close.

For good reason.

Head baker Wilhem Isaac
Head baker Wilhem IsaacSimon Schluter
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Originally from France, Isaac has worked the dough for the last eight years, most recently at small-batch baking specialist Woodfrog in St Kilda.

His specialties are on the money and will likely grow an audience base beyond Footscray.

The almond croissant and twisted puff pastry cheese straws are intensely buttery, and shattery crisp. Isaac is also specialising in galette des rois, a French tart with an almond cream filling.

The almond croissant winning the west.
The almond croissant winning the west.Simon Schluter

His sourdough loaves, using 50 per cent rye flour, have a well defined tang.

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Come early, and you'll also find olive bread, baguettes, white loaves and pain au chocolat, all coming straight from his oven to take away or eat on site at the handful of tables filling the minimalist room.

Coffee is coming, but only when Isaac finds a barista he's happy with.

In time, Isaac hopes to meet demand with a little more ease, but he also wants to keep the operation as small and high quality as possible. Could this be the start of Lune-style queues in Footscray? Stay tuned.

Open Thu-Sun 7am-5pm (or until sold out).

63 Gordon Street, Footscray.

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Gemima CodyGemima Cody is former chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Food.

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