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Jolly Good Sandwiches finds a permanent home in Fitzroy

Michael Harry
Michael Harry

Poached chicken with butter lettuce, herbs and citrus mayo at Jolly Good Sandwiches.
Poached chicken with butter lettuce, herbs and citrus mayo at Jolly Good Sandwiches.Supplied

You may have joined the line for a baguette from pandemic pop-up Jolly Good Sandwiches. Now chef Raphael Exton Pery has found a permanent home for his passion project, turning the side-hustle into a full-time gig.

The former Gimlet junior sous chef was riding his bike to a shift at Andrew McConnell's society hangout when he was hit by a car, spending six weeks in recovery. "It gave me time, like COVID did, to think about what I want to do long-term," he says.

Exton Pery has since teamed up with Fitzroy craft beer bar Near and Far, which is expanding into the site next door with a new bottle shop and kitchen – think Thornbury's low-fi Carwyn Cellars meets 1950s diner, with sandwiches. "This end of Brunswick Street [north of Johnston Street] is having a rebirth, so it's a perfect fit," says Exton Pery.

The rare roast beef roll with Swiss cheese and balsamic leaves.
The rare roast beef roll with Swiss cheese and balsamic leaves.Supplied
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Expect a more sophisticated affair than your usual lunchtime ham 'n' cheese – these creations are designed to match beer and wine options.

The bread is from Cobb Lane, and the four filling combinations are simple but premium: poached chook with butter lettuce, herbs and citrus mayo; rare roast beef with Swiss cheese and balsamic leaves; a deluxe salad roll with farmhouse cheddar (all $16) and a two-cheese toastie with mustard and pickles ($13).

Extras include giant pretzels, corn chips and pickles, and doughnuts, with new combinations and "special guest sandwiches" on the slate for the future.

Opening on June 5, then from Wed-Sat, 11am-4pm, Sun 11am-3pm at Near and Far, 373 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy. instagram.com/jollygood_sandwiches

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Michael HarryMichael Harry is a food and drinks writer, editor and contributor.

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