Just Open: Honcho Noodle, Melbourne

It's a case of try before you buy for Adam Liston's forthcoming Punch Lane Korea-­Japanese­-Chinese restaurant, Honcho. He's just opened a pop-­up version, Honcho Noodle, for a three-month run.

In collaboration with Hotel Windsor owners the Halim Group, chef Liston has set up shop in the old Wallis & Ed site off Bourke Street, glamming it up a bit without spending too much cash (they'll save that for the real thing come September) – a splash of neon, manga projections and additional outside seating for 20 more noodle lovers.

It's a short, sharp menu of "noodles" and "not noodles", the latter a swansong for some favourites from Liston's Northern Light days; think chicken-skin yakitori and those delightful prawn crackers.

The rest is a stepping stone for Liston, "a taste of what Honcho will be": steaming bowls of souped-­up noodles like a spicy kind­ of red ramen with an organic Korean mountain water noodle that Liston's imported direct (in fact, he's got his hands on the entire Australian allotment), barbecue pork and gochujang.

Don't overlook the on-­table condiments: katsubishi­-infused soy, house-­made togarashi and Chinese-­style chilli paste will heat things up.

Open Tue-­Sat 5pm­-10.30pm.

1 Bourke Street, Melbourne honchomelbourne.com