Tansy Good is one of Melbourne's cheffing greats. Her literacy in produce and the dark arts of saucework, jellies, offal and desserts, made her eponymous Carlton North (and later CBD) restaurant a ruler of Melbourne's dining scene in the 1980s and '90s.
It is no small matter, then, that Good has just returned to the game, opening 40-seat Tansy's Kyneton in the former Wedge Street Food and Wine site in Kyneton with partner John Evans.
The pair opened the restaurant in January, a whitewashed room lifted with a mosaic, bright plates from the Tansy's past, and a few velvet chairs, bareback tables and flowers.
It's currently just the two of them running the show: a single-page menu each of food and drinks.
Good is playing a straight hand, but guided by decades of experience. Starters might be rillettes, or soused sardines with verdant herb oils (a signature of Good), Australian charcuterie and cheeses.
The handful of mains is driven by supply. This week it's snapper or calamari just seared, with sauce a la Grecque. When she has ducks, the legs may be brined and cooked confit-style, followed by breast the next day, dressed by her "light, not Vegemite-y" sauces, and bookended by Good's famously delicate desserts such as a ginger, honey and lemon panna cotta with walnut praline.
Evans is currently pouring a tight wine list that's 50-50 Australian and European, with a focus on female winemakers where possible. The sparkling is by Fran Austin from Tasmania's Delamere, and Anna Pooley is behind the wines of Clarence House. Beers are from Alphington brewery La Sirene or big Asahi cans.
Open lunch and dinner Thursday to Saturday; lunch until 5pm Sundays.
91 Piper Street, Kyneton, 03 5422 1392.