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Lulu's Burgers, by a fine-dining chef, brings sizzle to Yarra Glen

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

A bold mural and neon signage illuminate the otherwise dark and moody space.
A bold mural and neon signage illuminate the otherwise dark and moody space.Hugh Davison

Matt Binney of Yarra Glen's Heartswood is the latest chef to throw his hat in the burger ring, opening Lulu's Burgers across the road from his 40-seat restaurant after three years of eyeing off the site.

While wagyu doughnuts and whipped feta with pickles are typical Heartswood dishes, Lulu's is all about American-style burgers given a chef's touch, from the Flinders & Co patties (a 50-50 check-brisket mix) to the fluffy Hokkaido milk buns from Brasserie Bread.

Beef burgers have crisp edges thanks to being pressed slightly while cooking (not quite a smash burger, but close). Four other burgers feature fried chicken – buttermilk or Nashville-style for daredevils – mushroom schnitzel or a Beyond Meat patty.

Binney says until now people have had to travel to Healesville or Chirnside for a decent burger. He hopes Lulu's - named after his daughter - will be a magnet for locals, especially the courtyard which has the best seats on sunny days.

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"We just want it to be a fun place for everybody, a fairly casual place where you can get noisy and carried away if you want," he says.

Alongside burgers, which start at $13, there's more Americana such as fried chicken with waffles or mac and cheese croquettes. Two beer taps join a truckload more craft brews in cans and a wine list of younger Yarra Valley producers like DCB. The Heartswood cellar is also at your disposal.

"We can send someone across [the road] for a bottle of champagne if you want to splash out with your fried chicken," says Binney.

Inheriting a dark room, he and partner Bianca added contrasting pops of colour via a neon Lulu's sign and a large mural by Justine Millsom (a.k.a Juzpop). It seats 48 inside, 20 outside and online takeaway ordering is on the way.

Open Thu-Fri 4pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late

Shop 6, 36 Bell Street, Yarra Glen, 03 8288 3206, Instagram: @lulusburgers_yg

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Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

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