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Marmite rules at new Brit-ish Sydney cafe Cornhill Coffee Co.

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Omelette Arnold Bennett featuring hot-smoked trout.
Omelette Arnold Bennett featuring hot-smoked trout.Supplied

It's a brave cafe that puts Marmite rather than Vegemite on an Australian menu. Cornhill Coffee Co. on York Street in Sydney's CBD is owner Andrew Carter's ode to British food.

"It's nostalgia on my part, but I've pretty quickly found Australians don't like HP Sauce," he says.

"We are importing Marmite from the UK, quite controversially it seems, and keeping Vegemite as an off-the-menu item," says Cornhill's British-born owner.

Cafe and roastery Cornhill Coffee Co. in York Street.
Cafe and roastery Cornhill Coffee Co. in York Street.Supplied
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Marmite finds its way into the food, offering what Carter touts as the "umani element".

He isn't sailing into Sydney blind. Cornhill Coffee Co is Carter's fifth cafe, so he's more than aware of Sydneysiders' deep-rooted affection for the popular spread.

Former Prince of York chef Viveik Vinoharan has crafted a menu that tips its bowler hat to the London cafe scene, with omelette Arnold Bennett, roti eggs (house-made roti with cumin-scented scrambled eggs, curry leaves and coriander chutney) and polenta porridge all putting in an appearance.

Equal parts cafe and roasting company, Cornhill Coffee Co. is named after the first location of London's original coffee house, which opened in St Michael's Alley, off Cornhill in 1652, Carter says.

Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-3.30pm.

18-20 York Street, Sydney

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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