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Merivale chef Dan Hong's new south-east Asian spot MuMu opens at the Ivy in Sydney

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

First look: The George Livissianis interior had input from Merivale chief Justin Hemmes.
First look: The George Livissianis interior had input from Merivale chief Justin Hemmes.Wolter Peeters

Wraparound artwork, a neon installation and yuzu slushies on the menu. Merivale might have left its funkiest restaurant launch for deep in the festive season.

MuMu opens on the evening of Friday, December 10. The George Livissianis interior had plenty of input from Merivale chief Justin Hemmes, alongside styling from Bettina Hemmes and Amanda Talbot.

The food? Well, that's the domain of chef Dan Hong.

Dan Hong has refined his technique while working at Merivale's Mr. Wong, Queen Chow and Ms.G's.
Dan Hong has refined his technique while working at Merivale's Mr. Wong, Queen Chow and Ms.G's.Milad K Photography
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Hong tells Good Food the menu has its roots in an overseas trip – taken by a posse of chefs and Hemmes – that took in more stops than a Contiki tour in search of great street food.

"It was crazy, something like five different countries in seven days through south-east Asia," Hong says.

One memorable visit to the markets in Ho Chi Minh City's district four provided inspiration for MuMu's grilled half-shell scallops with spring onion relish.

The menu was inspired by an overseas trip taken by Justin Hemmes and a group of chefs.
The menu was inspired by an overseas trip taken by Justin Hemmes and a group of chefs.Jiwon Kim

Wrapped food was a big theme of the trip, and it plays out on the MuMu menu, with a sweet pork with betel leaf and short rib and sambal with lettuce leaf.

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Hong used all his experience at the group's Mr. Wong, Queen Chow and Ms.G's restaurants to bring together dishes including a larb of puffed pork rinds, Vietnamese steak tartare and nasi goreng with spanner crab and cuttlefish.

The concept might sound like a high-wire act, but Hong has taken an authentic approach with technique at the 180-seater.

Grilled and glazed Angus short rib with various sauces, sambals, lettuce leaves, herbs and pickles.
Grilled and glazed Angus short rib with various sauces, sambals, lettuce leaves, herbs and pickles.Jiwon Kim

The chef has a simple mantra for the latest arrival to the Ivy precinct. "I want it to be fun, delicious food and [a little] loud," he said.

Open Tue-Sat noon-late.

330 George Street, Sydney, merivale.com/venues/mumu/

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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