Merivale's The Collaroy opens on Sydney's northern beaches

Sydney's northern beaches have yet another benchmark-setting venue, with The Collaroy gassed up and relaunched. It's a mix of quirky and cool with a few touches of sister venue Coogee Pavilion.

"There are a few similarities, but it's not a cookie cutter of Coogee," says executive chef Jordan Toft. "It's more of a shared sense of what that word pavilion brings – a public space."

There's a little of the bare-bones fittings of Coogee, with plenty of northern beaches touches and a sprinkling of luxury and cute graphics.

Toft, who oversees the food at several Merivale venues, including Coogee Pavilion and the upmarket Newport diner, Bert's, has crafted a menu at The Collaroy with its own personality.

The brief lurches from accessible (mortadella and provolone melts for the sand-between-the-toes crowdand wood-fired pizza from the hand of Vincenzo Biondini) to more complex (grilled swordfish with green olive oil aioli and a spatchcock dish).

But Toft has a left-field tip for the dish likely to be crowned The Collaroy's crowd-pleasing signature.

"I've got a sneaking suspicion it'll be the meatballs. There's pecorino in there with mint."

Open Mon-Thu 7.30am-midnight; Fri, Sat 7.30am-3am; Sun 7.30am-11pm.

1064 Pittwater Road, Collaroy, 02 9114 7361, merivale.com/venues/thecollaroy.