MOD. Dining by Clayton Wells opens at the Art Gallery of NSW's Sydney Modern Project

On Saturday, December 3 Sydney's hottest new gallery space gets its first look at the culinary arts when MOD. Dining by Clayton Wells opens at the Art Gallery of NSW extension – the Sydney Modern Project.

The sprawling architectural dining room is a neat canvas for Wells' food. MOD isn't the high-wire fine-dining act of Automata, his Chippendale restaurant that closes later this month, although Wells says some elements of those dishes will reappear. It will lean a little closer to A1 Canteen, which schooled him in delivering an all-day eatery. A1 fans will tell you he overdelivered.

Indeed, MOD's opening menu is a refreshing take for arts institution venues, which normally lean toward the facsimile. Steamed diamond shell clams are matched with a curry leaf sauce, rainbow trout tucks up with XO and red vinegar, a fried prawn sandwich joins the party along with salt and vinegar pork skins with a Madras curry. A menu Wells explains is created to reflect the diversity and multiculturalism of the city it lands in.

The idea for MOD was born when Wells did a number of events with Peter McCloskey's Fresh Collective, which is involved with the art gallery's food outlets. "It's a collaboration," Wells says. And a sizeable one, with 100 seats indoors and another 80 out on the terrace.

It's a busy month for Wells, who got married last week, closes Automata on December 17 and births MOD on December 3. The chef has long had an eye on art gallery eateries, naming COVID casualty Flora Bar at The Met Breuer in New York City as a favourite, and with MOD is looking forward to finally having a restaurant with a name people can correctly pronounce. "With Automata the first three people we asked got it right," he says with a laugh. Since then, it's been a lottery.

Open Wed 10am-10pm; Thu-Tue 10am-4pm.

Art Gallery Road, Sydney, moddining.com.au