Mono-XO brings yakitori to the Fitzroy backstreets

Bartender Joe Jones, co-owner of city cocktail bar Romeo Lane, and chef Sam Stafford, who's done time at Town Mouse (RIP) and Momofuku Seiobo, have opened Mono-XO, a 25-seat Fitzroy bar slinging grilled skewers, rock and cocktails. Rocktails, if you will.

"Charcoal and rock'n'roll" is the pitch of this modern yakitori joint. So are natural wines, curated by silent partner and winemaker Andy Buchan. Skewers, a rough dozen are $4-$9, all gluten-free with a solid vegan offering, and switch as each sells out.

The starting dozen includes duck meatballs, pork belly, shishito peppers, glazed mushrooms, cuttlefish and katsu prawn for the pesco crowd and braised tripe for the bold.

Drinks run to frozen whisky highballs, fresh party-starters like a pastis, pear and soda, or beers with yuzu (or booze-free jasmine sodas), and party enders like shots of JD.

Open Tue-Sat 5pm-11pm.

Rear 191a Smith Street, Fitzroy (enter via Charles Street).