The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Parco Ramen brings seriously special soup, plus snacks, to Moonee Ponds

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

The menu's eight bowls of ramen are dominated by tori paitan broths, a rich chicken base, pictured here topped with charred pork belly.
The menu's eight bowls of ramen are dominated by tori paitan broths, a rich chicken base, pictured here topped with charred pork belly.Supplied

Parco Ramen is unusual in many ways, and not just because it's partly owned by an Italian fine-dining chef.

Among the eight soups on offer, one is a ramen made with slipper lobster, Moreton Bay bug, koji and lobster oil, a recipe meticulously developed by Federico Congiu and business partner Manato Hikawa.

Congiu caught the ramen bug on a trip to Japan more than 10 years ago and his interest intensified through regular business trips that took him across the country.

Parco Ramen's first standalone shopfront follows many years of takeaway and a CBD collaboration with global ramen outfit Shujinko.
Parco Ramen's first standalone shopfront follows many years of takeaway and a CBD collaboration with global ramen outfit Shujinko.Supplied
Advertisement

"Most people think they know the best ramen after going to Tokyo CBD," he says. "I'm sorry but that's not right. To find good ramen [done] the proper way, you need local people to show you around."

In 2016, he began experimenting with broths and noodles at home, a hobby he continued after joining the Di Stasio restaurants in 2018 as executive chef, a role he still holds.

Congiu and Hikawa progressed from takeaway in 2020 to a shopfront in the CBD (a partnership with ramen group Shujinko) and now to their very own space, serving don (rice) bowls with karaage or yuzu-egg salad, snacks like gyoza and three different styles of ramen.

The lobster ramen, made with Moreton Bay bug, lobster oil, koji and South Australian crayfish.
The lobster ramen, made with Moreton Bay bug, lobster oil, koji and South Australian crayfish.Supplied

Tori paitan (chicken) soups might come with charred pork belly or a paste of garlic cooked three different ways. The vegan ramen, which took a year of R&D, features roasted tomato, marinated shiitake and greens in a kombu, soy milk and dashi soup. And then there's the lobster bowl, a best-seller that's only on the menu when the shellfish is in season.

Advertisement

Congiu has deliberated over every flavour decision. Most of the soups have a tori paitan base, a rich stock made with chicken bones and offcuts that's less common than pork-based tonkotsu​. House-cultured koji is a key source of umami, and the straight, thin noodles are made with kinako, roasted soy bean flour.

Occupying what was previously an Indian bakery in the heart of Moonee Ponds, Parco seats 25 people across stools and benches, and has retained the original retro floor tiles.

Congiu, meanwhile, continues to divide his time between making fior di latte and pasta for Di Stasio and tare and noodles for Parco.

Open Tue-Thu 5pm-9pm, Fri 5pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 5pm-9pm

17A Hall Street, Moonee Ponds, parcoproject.com

Continue this series

May 2022 hit list: Hot and new places to eat and drink in Melbourne this month
Up next
Chicken souvlaki is "as Aussie as a drop punt".

Plaka's Greek platters hit the spot

Dani Valent discovers modern Greek street eats in Hawthorn.

An aerial view of Hubert Estate, the update to historic Yarra Valley winery St Hubert's.

Yarra Valley winery pioneer St Hubert's revamped as Hubert Estate in Coldstream

One of the Victorian region's first wineries has just unveiled an impressive upgrade. And there's more to come.

Previous
Golden fried rice with dried salmon and preserved cos lettuce.

Parcs transforms scraps before they've 'scone' to waste

On paper, the Melbourne bar's minimal-waste philosophy is an ode to worthiness, but the menu will show you a fun and often surprising time, reviews Michael Harden.

See all stories

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up
Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement