Pembroke Bar and Kitchen brings inner-city vibe to Surrey Hills

The philosophy behind Adrian Morrissy's​ new Surrey Hills restaurant, Pembroke Bar and Kitchen, is refreshingly simple. "I just wanted to do good food that didn't have to go in a box," he says.

Morrissy was behind takeaway food franchise Wokinabox from 2002 until he sold the brand and its 40-odd stores to Noodle Box in 2010. His next venture was Tasca Viva, a Spanish restaurant in Adelaide.

Pembroke, named after the street he lived on with his partner when they first moved to Surrey Hills, is his first Melbourne restaurant. His goal is to bring the same standards found in in the inner city to the suburbs. "We're aiming for something like [Andrew McConnell's] Marion Wine Bar – really nice food, good wine, and a relaxed but professional style of service.

"There's a lot of people, like myself, that like good food and don't always want to go into the city," he says.

He's enlisted former Tipo 00 and Osteria Ilaria sous chef, Christos Milionis, to head up the kitchen.

Milionis, who came to Australia from Greece a few years ago, describes the food at Pembroke as "modern Mediterranean". The menu will change regularly and is designed to share. The opening carte includes kingfish with fennel, grapefruit and lime mayonnaise; pan-fried sea bream, pea risotto, clams and chorizo; and tortelli with pine mushrooms and parmesan cream.

As for the Fiona Lynch-designed space, there's room for 40 in the front dining room, either on banquettes or at a central communal table. There's space for a handful less in the courtyard, covered and heated in winter, but able to be opened up in the warmer months.

Open Sun-Thu noon-10pm; Fri-Sat noon-11pm.

147 Union Road, Surrey Hills, 03 9890 6268, pembrokebar.com.au