Shannon Bennett's seafood restaurant Iki Jime opens in Melbourne

For the past 11 years 430 Little Collins Street has been Melbourne's home of French bistro classics.

But after a swift renovation by designers Projects of the Imagination, Shannon Bennett's Bistro Vue has morphed into Iki Jime, with a menu devoted entirely to sustainable Australian seafood.

Gauzy black curtains, taupe banquettes and zinc light fittings have updated the woodsy fin de siecle fitout without completely obliterating it. Even the brass name plate out the front is the same, only with a fresh coat of paint and new brand added.

The biggest change is on the menu, a collection of share-friendly seafood dishes using today's catch. Most of it is sourced from so-called "fisherman to the stars" Mark Eather, who uses hand-caught fishing methods.

Fish-phobes won't be able to seek solace in a token steak – there won't be any meat dishes on the list, although the kitchen can improvise vegetarian dishes if required.

Fans of Bistro Vue's tarte tatin can relax, however. Executive chef Justin James is keeping the dessert, a menu fixture since the restaurant opened in 2006.

Like the dining room, it will get an update, arriving with ice-cream made with milk smoked in the newly installed Josper oven and the apple being replaced with seasonal fruit.

James is tipping the Moreton bay bug tart with delicate saltwater pastry, briny kelp "fudge" and lime vinaigrette, and a riff on prawn cocktail, using grilled king prawns, dehydrated horseradish, cured duck egg yolk and lemon oil, to become the new house signatures.

There will be "off-menu" dishes too, depending on what Eather manages to catch.

The bistro's former bar becomes Bar Jime, with its own menu and later closing time. King of the bar snacks is an addictive mixture of spicy nuts, crunchy noodles, dried anchovies, but odds-on it will be worth staying for another round to sample the snapper snag in a brioche roll with tarragon emulsion and kohlrabi slaw.

430 Little Collins Street, Melbourne, 03 9691 3838, ikijime.com.au.

Open Tue-Sat noon-3pm and 5.30pm-late.