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Surry Hills restaurant Jane opens in former Bistrode site

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Jane's pink cake riffs on a childhood memory of a sponge cake made by the owner's grandmother.
Jane's pink cake riffs on a childhood memory of a sponge cake made by the owner's grandmother.Nikki To

When Tristan Rosier explained that his new restaurant was named and inspired by his grandmother, we expected something a little folksy. Yet Jane, which serves its first diners this weekend, is anything but plain, with brass detailing through the joinery and plush corduroy upholstery.

"What can I say? My grandmother is a stylish woman," Rosier says.

It helps that her grandson also owns deg-destination Arthur just down the block.

The venue features plush corduroy upholstery and joinery with brass detailing.
The venue features plush corduroy upholstery and joinery with brass detailing.Nikki To
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Rosier, group head chef Kevin Oh and Jane's head chef, Victoria Scriven, collaborated on an opening menu that swings from steamed honey bug with a tarragon butter to Murray cod with "native" curry sauce and a quirky take on panisse (chickpea flour fritters). Jane's version includes venison 'njuda and piped parmesan custard.

And what says a night at Nan's more than rib-eye with "drippings butter" or a riff on her pink-iced sponge cake "pimped" with layers of meringue, bay leaf cream and candied rosella flowers and fresh strawberries.

With just 36 seats (eight of those at the bar), Jane – which opens in the former site of Ume and Bistrode – is a diminutive addition to the Sydney restaurant scene. There's sure to be plenty of fighting among the kids for the prized table at the front with its lazy susan.

Sydney rock oysters with desert lime and apple vinegar condiment.
Sydney rock oysters with desert lime and apple vinegar condiment.Nikki To

Open Wed-Sun 5pm-late.

478 Bourke Street, Surry Hills, janesurryhills.com

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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