When Tristan Rosier explained that his new restaurant was named and inspired by his grandmother, we expected something a little folksy. Yet Jane, which serves its first diners this weekend, is anything but plain, with brass detailing through the joinery and plush corduroy upholstery.
"What can I say? My grandmother is a stylish woman," Rosier says.
It helps that her grandson also owns deg-destination Arthur just down the block.
Rosier, group head chef Kevin Oh and Jane's head chef, Victoria Scriven, collaborated on an opening menu that swings from steamed honey bug with a tarragon butter to Murray cod with "native" curry sauce and a quirky take on panisse (chickpea flour fritters). Jane's version includes venison 'njuda and piped parmesan custard.
And what says a night at Nan's more than rib-eye with "drippings butter" or a riff on her pink-iced sponge cake "pimped" with layers of meringue, bay leaf cream and candied rosella flowers and fresh strawberries.
With just 36 seats (eight of those at the bar), Jane – which opens in the former site of Ume and Bistrode – is a diminutive addition to the Sydney restaurant scene. There's sure to be plenty of fighting among the kids for the prized table at the front with its lazy susan.
Open Wed-Sun 5pm-late.
478 Bourke Street, Surry Hills, janesurryhills.com