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Terror Twilight cafe replaces Bedford Street diner

Sofia Levin
Sofia Levin

Broth bowl with salmon.
Broth bowl with salmon.Supplied

Collingwood's Bedford Street is no more. The former home to fried chicken waffles for breakfast has been replaced by Twilight Terror and a very different pitch: build-your-own brown rice and broth bowls.

Wide Open Road co-owners Jono Hill and Hootan Heydari were partners in Bedford Street, and when it didn't quite take off, they decided to open a health-focused cafe for everyday eating (not just artery-busting days).

Wide Open Road's executive chef Pia Hambour has assembled the all-day breakfast menu. Broths take 24 hours to make and add-ins range from turmeric and cumin-tossed cauliflower to miso-glazed eggplant on the vegie front, with grilled salmon, poached chicken and Sichuan-marinated tofu as protein.

There's an element of Wide Open Road cafe to Terror Twilight.
There's an element of Wide Open Road cafe to Terror Twilight. Supplied
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Non-bowl dishes include brussels sprouts with zucchini-haloumi fritters and a version of avocado toast pimped with pickled carrot, beetroot and dukkah.

Arched walls and maroon booths are a hangover from Bedford Street, but a reclaimed factory window has been added and there are traces of Wide Open Road now: Art Deco lighting, warm timbers and portraits of Heydari's grandfather and Hill's grandmother watching over customers.

Like the team's other venues, Terror Twilight is named after an album – in this case by '90s indie rockers Pavement – and they have the vinyl collection on display to prove it.

Farewell fried chicken and waffles.
Farewell fried chicken and waffles.Pat Scala

Open Mon-Fri 7am-5pm, Sat-Sun 8am-5pm.

11-13 Johnston Street, Collingwood, 03 9417 0129, terrortwilight.com.au

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Sofia LevinSofia Levin is a food writer and presenter.

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