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The Rocks police station reborn as Asian restaurant Sergeant Lok

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Clockwise from top right: Snapper, shiitake, red chilli, first press soy, witlof; Sichuan pepper squid; king prawns, kaffir lime, black vinaigrette; ocean trout, red bean curd cure, pickled goji berry, crispy potato.
Clockwise from top right: Snapper, shiitake, red chilli, first press soy, witlof; Sichuan pepper squid; king prawns, kaffir lime, black vinaigrette; ocean trout, red bean curd cure, pickled goji berry, crispy potato.Supplied

The historic police station at The Rocks – just a few doors from the original Rockpool site on George Street – has been given Sydney's restaurant rejuvenation treatment.

If you're wondering about the Sergeant Lok moniker, it's a nod to both the former use of the neo-classical building and its modern Asian menu.

Lui Lok was the corrupt policeman who terrified Hong Kong in the 1960s and '70s, dubbed the "500 million dollar inspector".

The grand colonial building has been rejuvenated.
The grand colonial building has been rejuvenated.Supplied
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Its operation manager, Edward Ng, explains The Rocks housed many Chinese immigrants before Sydney had a Chinatown.

"There were quite a few gambling and opium dens," Ng says.

Ng says Stephen Bae from Inspace Design was tasked with transforming the 1883 former cop shop, while the restaurant has snared chef Kay Hwang, who has China Doll and Rockpool on his CV.

Inspace Design was tasked with transforming the onetime cop shop.
Inspace Design was tasked with transforming the onetime cop shop.Supplied

"I've been really watching how modern Asian restaurants have been developing in Sydney and think we're adding to that, although there's nothing similar [to Sergeant Lok] in the market," Ng says.

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"The chef uses touches of his Korean background, and makes our own tofu from scratch."

The restaurateur is no stranger to the Sydney restaurant scene, expanding the giant Kam Fook chain before selling up to try his luck in Melbourne with Duck Duck Goose.

"It didn't work; Melbourne wiped me out," he says.

With investors on board, Ng is bringing his operational background to the Sergeant Lok venture.

Open Sun-Mon 11am-6pm, Tue-Thu 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-midnight.

127 George Street, The Rocks, 02 9252 8338, sergeantlok.com.au/blog

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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